Sunday, 20 April 2014

89活海產

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之前看過寶島李寫的【89活海產:大香腸般的帝王蟹腳看過沒有】後,就一直很想找機會回味一下生猛帝王蟹的滋味。不過,要揪成團也不是那麼容易,畢竟價格不菲。
好不容易有同事說想吃這間,就湊了9個人,提前幾個禮拜就訂了位和帝王蟹,下班後衝來吃。 

就是小吃店的裝潢。有3間店面,完全的客滿,建議一定要訂位才行。
水族箱內放滿了碩大的活帝王蟹。基本上第一次來的人都會搶著抓帝王蟹拍照,而且一定要打卡上傳到臉書來讓朋友們流口水才甘心XD
菜單一覽(這邊的價格很兩極。快炒的部分頗便宜,但沒標價的部分價格通常會有點驚人)
煙燻茶鵝$420(鵝肉多汁甜美,鵝皮帶著淡淡的燻香味,非常好吃,大推!)
炸軟絲$680(看似普通,但炸的香氣撲鼻,麵衣薄而且調味佳。炸的剛剛好,不會過老。好吃,大推!)
滷肉飯(這是免費吃到飽的。要多少飯或滷肉都隨便加。是我最喜歡的全肥風格,可惜調味有點過甜,不然就大推了,因此只有推的水準。)
麻油腰子$200(還不錯,但沒什麼特別的印象)
沙茶空心菜牛肉$180(空心菜翠綠,牛肉很嫩,沙茶醬汁很香。好吃,大推!)
薑絲大腸$160(似乎是薑絲跟醬油去炒的。腸子的部分香脆軟Q,而且味道有入,而且很划算,大推!)
蒜泥蚵$180(蚵仔頗為鮮美,搭配蒜泥蔥末辣椒以及醬油膏,好吃,推!)
炒海瓜子$220(很香,但上來時似乎已經涼了,可惜)
大豆苗$120(記得還不錯)
帝王蟹鍋$11,400(這帝王蟹一斤$1,200。其實感覺他們的價格合理,因為之前跟友人去桃園竹圍漁港買帝王蟹回家煮,一斤$1,000,所以店家並沒有漫天開價。蟹腿分切後,還會在中間剪開一部份,這樣方便客人吃。火鍋的體積頗為驚人,裡面的料非常多,而且湯頭本身就極為鮮美了。而且這帝王蟹有分兩種吃法,所以圖中這蟹腳只是一半的份量而已)
第一吃是放入火鍋內煮熟。可以輕易的把蟹肉從蟹殼剝開來,證明真的超級新鮮。甜度真的完全的沒話說,而且很有彈性。跟冷凍那種一吃就碎的完全不同。特推
第二吃是火烤。發覺烤過後,不管是香氣跟蟹肉的甜度都更上一層樓,滿足感跟爽度都高到不行。特推
水果(連附贈的葡萄都超級新鮮而且甜到不行)
雜炊(煮過帝王蟹的火鍋湯,當然不能放棄最後的雜炊。這要自己煮才行。店家會把裡面的料給撈光,然後給幾顆蛋和蔥花,白飯要多少自己去舀。把白飯倒入高湯內,用小火煮個大約20分鐘,然後打入蛋,撒上蔥花,就是一鍋無可挑剔的海鮮雜炊。吃完這個,大家都顯得很滿足。)
這樣子9個人吃,平均每個人約$1,525。是不便宜,但活帝王蟹不容易吃到,尤其是火鍋以及燒烤兩吃極為美味。另外,他們的快炒部分好吃又便宜,而且滷肉飯又吃到飽,基本上是不可能餓到的。
總而言之,這是以後絕對會再訪的店。以後來,會想再多花錢吃看看他們的活滷小鮑魚跟烏魚腱,價格應該會很恐怖,恐怕會一個人兩千以上XD 

89活海產
台北市中山區合江街89號
02-2501-6167
11:30~14:00, 17:00~22:00

2011 [台北食記] 生猛海鮮@遼寧夜市 ~ 小張龜山島


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這禮拜六參加了老公的大學同學會,老公的麻吉Jamie找了間遼寧夜市頗負盛名的生猛海產店叫做"小張龜山島",準備來個活跳跳海鮮大餐。逼進門口時,看見大陣仗感謝告示牌全寫著xx電視台、xx報紙週刊,感覺名氣響叮噹啊!再看見老闆海派親切的笑容,感覺來對地方了!同學聚會就是要這個fu,豪邁、澎湃、爽快、熱鬧、歡樂!
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我們剛到時老闆正在整理漁獲,他說今天塞車啦,從宜蘭回來的時間有點晚了,請我們稍等一下。哇!真的是漁港直送耶,超新鮮的啦!
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雅婷指著這條魚說:"這就是河豚!" 我睜大了眼睛仔細打量了一番。之前只聽說河豚有多美味,肉質像絲一樣細滑,還常常發生中毒事件,今天終於一窺廬山真面目活像隻凸眼怪獸,好嚇人哇!不敢吃啦~
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老闆一邊整理漁獲一邊順手撥了隻生蝦請Jamie吃,Jamie 直呼好甜喔!
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往裡走去,一樓的牆壁上還張貼了"榮譽榜"! 最醒目的就是這篇用日文寫的報導,看來這間餐廳已經紅到日本去啦!
日文實在看不太懂啦,只看見小張是在宜蘭出生,父親是位漁夫,其他就不太行了~ 
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一樓的座位還蠻少的,坐起來應該有點擠。不過我們這一群人總共有13位,直接安排樓上的大圓桌給我們。
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<菜單> 其實這張菜單只是參考用,直接跟小姐點就可以了,最重要的是那些特色海產要趕快搶,不然就沒得吃啦~
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六點整還沒什麼人,不過沒多久整間餐廳全滿!所以訂個位還是比較保險滴。
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一入座立刻上了一盤招待的小菜 - 洋蔥柴魚片,酸酸甜甜的剛好開個胃!
接下來就讓大家欣賞我們嚐了哪些好料吧!
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<沙拉涼筍> 甜甜甜~
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炒飯炒得很香,我們點了兩盤。
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炒麵比較普通一點。
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<炒透抽> 這道好好吃,嚐起來鮮美甘甜,而且老闆不知道怎麼用的,好軟喔~
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<絲瓜蛤仔>
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<炒山蘇> 山蘇很嫩,和豆鼓、破布子和小魚乾下去爆炒,很入味唷~
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<清蒸地震魚> 地震魚的正確名稱叫做皇帶魚,身體扁長呈帶狀,最常可達7~8公尺,好長啊~ 平常都生活在深海之中,但是如果遇到地震或颱風等影響,有可能會游到淺曾海域被漁民捕捉上岸,所以還有個別名叫做地震魚。
地震魚是小張龜山島的招牌,用清蒸的,新鮮度絕對沒話說。第一次吃地震魚覺得滿口膠質,好像在吃果凍QQ的,口感很特殊也很好吃唷!
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今日的重頭戲豋場,生甜蝦!這道也是必點的招牌喔! 看這滿滿的一盤好壯觀!
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送上來的甜蝦有幾種,有些有好多的卵但比較小隻,還有大隻ㄧ點的就沒卵了。
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總歸一句話,甜中帶鮮,原汁原味,爆好吃的啦!
蝦頭的部份可以留起來,老闆還會幫大家烤蝦頭喔~
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這盤鮭魚沙西米也是鮮嫩肥美,老闆切的厚薄適中,吃完一片之後我和Tina交換了個眼神,隨即一起說出:好好吃喔~!讚!
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<安康魚鍋> 
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看這個料有多豐富哇!安康魚我倒是沒有吃,不過蝦子可就喀了不少,湯頭感覺熬煮很久,蠻濃郁的。
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<鹹酥龍筋> 龍筋其實是無目鰻魚,東港產量最多,每次回屏東吃海產一定會點"盲鰻"來吃。龍筋嚼起來是有咬勁的,QQ的,這種酥炸的海鮮就像涮嘴小吃一樣,一吃下去就停不了啦~
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<九層塔炒海瓜子>
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<蚵仔蘇> 這盤一端上來,大夥兒直說好大盤喔!老闆炸的香酥脆,粉也不會太厚,超級美味,沒一下子就見底了。
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<炒高麗菜>
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最後大家吃飽了啤酒也喝的差不多了,一直在等我們的蝦頭!感覺烤了一個多小時了還沒烤好,詢問老闆後發現代誌大條了,蝦頭勒?蝦頭不見了!老闆說你們先上樓,他想辦法!最後直接送我們一盤"完整"的烤蝦啦,真是賺到了!
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今日戰果輝煌啊!總共16盤菜(炒飯兩盤),價格NT 472 / 人,非常划算!下次想要大啖海鮮,小張龜山島是很不錯的選擇喔!推薦給大家啦~ 
小張龜山島
地址台北市遼寧街73號夜市內
電話: 0927-808-693

Monday, 14 April 2014

傷逝

2014年4月14日<信報>
劉健威 <此時此刻>

中環結志街的「有利」海鮮店換了經營者,每次經過,都悵然若有所失。
「有利」是由一對夫妻打理的,他們是標準的水上人,憨憨直直,好像只知工作,腦子裏並沒有太多多餘的東西──每天一大清早就從長洲運來海鮮,賣到下午五點鐘前就收檔了,周日和假期不開。有利賣的是長洲來的海鮮,雖然賣的不是貴價魚,大抵是些紅衫、青根、獅頭魚、小黃花之類,好處是九成以上都是野生的,又很新鮮,有時不夠東西賣,才雜了一些養殖的黃花。偶然,也有一兩條素質和價錢較高的石斑。但我常常最感興趣的是七日鮮──此魚是以前傳說中的「魚王」,但也許是產量少而供應不穩定,漸漸被人遺忘了,現在認識此魚的人很少,價錢也賣不貴──每斤只是一百二十元,驚人的便宜。夠大條的話,七日鮮最好是一魚兩味──拆肉炒球,蒸魚骨和頭尾;這魚的特色是魚肉爽口有嚼勁,故炒七日鮮球是道名貴菜。雖然隔鄰有個男人也同樣賣些野生雜魚,但質素和有利賣的總是有分別;我每次經過,懶得走過去瞄一下。
其實每個街市賣菜賣肉賣海鮮的檔攤不少,但有經驗的人知道,有趣、有性格的檔攤不到五檔。所謂有性格就是,賣菜的,和新界一些農場掛鈎,或四出搜購新界菜園的出品;賣魚的,和一些「姑仔艇」有協議,專門賣漁民撈捕回來的海產。可是即使同是海鮮檔,但賣的魚蝦還是有所分別,因為有些是在香港仔取貨,有些則是流浮山;水域不同,出品也有異。賣長洲海鮮只有有利一家,故對我來說,結志街最有價值和意義的,還是有利,其他檔攤店舖所賣,九成是大同小異的貨色。有利消失,結志街就好像一下子失去了重點和靈魂。

Sunday, 6 April 2014

The best 100 restaurants in the world revealed - and Heston Blumenthal gets mentioned twice!

http://www.dailymail.co.uk/travel/article-2595381/The-best-restaurants-world-revealed-Heston-Blumenthal-gets-mentioned-twice.html

Two of Heston Blumenthal's restaurants have made it into the top 100 eateries in the world - scooping both third and 23rd place.
The celebrity chef's iconic Fat Duck was named the third best restaurant in the world in an annual poll by private jet lifestyle magazine Elite Traveler and Champagne Laurent-Perrier.
And his London eatery, Dinner by Heston Blumenthal, at the Mandarin Oriental hotel, made it into the top 25.
Scroll down for video
Winning streak: Heston Blumenthal had two restaurants recognised in the top 100
Gordon Ramsay
Winning streak: Heston Blumenthal had two restaurants recognised in the top 100, while Gordon Ramsay's London eatery took the 24th spot
The experimental chef dominated among the 11 British restaurants that made it into the top 100, of which eight are located in the capital.
While Chicago's three-Michelin star Alinea restaurant took the top spot, a record three New York eateries made it into the top 10.
The second spot went to DANIEL, owned by French chef Daniel Boulud, while contemporary American eatery Eleven Madison took fourth pace and La Bernardin fifth.
Country retreat: The Fat Duck, in Bray, Berkshire came third in the list of top 100 restaurants in the world
Country retreat: The Fat Duck, in Bray, Berkshire came third in the list of top 100 restaurants in the world
Britain's second entry in the top 10 was the two-Michelin star The Ledbury in London's Notting Hill - which took the ninth spot.
Heston Blumenthal said: 'Food critics are very important for the business and obviously to bring the general public in, but ultimately you're cooking for your customers and you want to give them the best pleasure and experience. So to have this recognition, after we've been going for nearly twenty years, it's fantastic.'
Young talent: Chef Grant Achatz has three Michelin stars for his Chicago restaurant Alinea
Young talent: Chef Grant Achatz has three Michelin stars for his Chicago restaurant Alinea
Country retreat: Raymond Blanc's Le Manoir Aux Quat' Saisons was also honoured on the list
Country retreat: Raymond Blanc's Le Manoir Aux Quat' Saisons was also honoured on the list
Head Chef at The Ledbury Brett Graham was just as delighted.
He said: 'We've got a great, enthusiastic young team here. We all work really hard together to do our best towards the guests' experience and it's really nice for the team to get an award like this and recognition of all their hard work. This is an important award and we're very pleased we're included in it.'
London leader: Dinner by Heston Blumenthal is located in the capital's Mandarin Oriental hotel
London leader: Dinner by Heston Blumenthal is located in the capital's Mandarin Oriental hotel
Other British entries into the top 100 were dominated by some of the country's best-known chefs, with Restaurant Gordon Ramsay and Alain Ducasse at the Dorchester - both in London - taking 24th and 54th place respectively.

THE BRITISH RESTAURANTS THAT MADE IT INTO THE TOP 100

The Fat Duck, Berkshire (3)
The Ledbury, London (9)
Dinner by Heston Blumenthal, London (23)
Restaurant Gordon Ramsay, London (24)
Le Manoir, Oxfordshire (30)
Alain Ducasse at the Dorchester, London (54)
Le Gavroche, London (74)
Amaya, London (76)
The Waterside Inn, Berkshire (94)
Nobu, London (96)
Zuma, London (99)
Raymond Blanc's Le Manoir, in Oxfordshire, also took 30th place, while Alain Roux's The Waterside Inn scooped the 94th spot.
Chicago's Alinea, headed by chef Grant Achatz, came out on top for a third consecutive year, leading the way for four US restaurants in the top 10 - of which three are in New York.
Spain and Italy completed the top 10, with two entries each. El Celler Can Roca, in Girona, Barcelona, and Azurmendi, in Bilbao, took sixth and seventh spot.
La Pergola, in Rome, and Osteria Francescana, in Modena, took eighth and 10th place.
London and the UK's restaurant ranking isn't a surprise, according to renowned food critic Andy Hayler, who has eaten at every Michelin star restaurant in the world. 
On London and the UK's stellar performance in the Elite 100 Restaurants 2014, he said: 'This year on the Elite 100 list there are a dozen restaurants from the UK - eight of those are from London - and I think this really reflects London's status as an international dining destination.
'London's got a terrific mix of nationalities in terms of its population and that's reflected in the dining scene. 
Dining out: Le Gavroche came in 74th place worldwide
Dining Out: The Fat Duck was one of two Berkshire restaurants to make it into the top 100
Dining Out: Le Gavroche took 74th place while the Fat Duck was one of two Berkshire restaurants to make it into the top 100
Top 10: The Ledbury was the second British restaurant to make it onto the list, in ninth place
Top 10: The Ledbury was the second British restaurant to make it onto the list, in ninth place
'At the high end you've clearly got some very good restaurants such as restaurants like The Ledbury. It's particularly well thought of in London.
'It's interesting to see the list including Le Gavroche, an old favorite of mine, which is much more classical in style, and I think it's good to see that type of restaurant getting recognition.' 
 
Overall, worldwide there were 16 new restaurant entries on the list this year, with the highest new entry, spectacularly at number seven overall, being made by Spanish Azurmendi. 
The delighted Head Chef Eneko Axta said: 'It is fantastic for me since this is a recognition given by the readers. I always say that the client comes first and is the most important, and in this case, it is really special to me since Elite Traveler readers have voted for us.'
THE TOP 100 RESTAURANTS IN THE WORLD

1-10

1. Alinea, Chicago, US
2. DANIEL, New York, US
3. Fat Duck, Berkshire, UK
4. Eleven Madison, New York, US
5. Le Bernardin, New York, US
6. El Celler Can Roca, Spain
7. Azurmendi, Spain
8. La Pergola, Rome, Italy
9. The Ledbury, London, UK
10. Osteria Francescana, Italy

21-30

11. Per Se, New York
12. Narisawa, Tokyo
13. Pujol, Mexico
14. Amber, Hong Kong
15. D.O.M., Brazil
16. Robuchon au Dome, China
17. Pierre Gagnaire, Paris, France
18. Aqua, Germany
19. Hof Van Cleve, Belgium
20. Jean Gorges, New York

31-40

31. Quique Dacosta, Spain
32. Biko, Mexico
33. Mizai, Japan
34. Made in China, China
35. Marque, Australia
36. Le Calandre
37. Waku Ghin
38. Mr & Mrs Bund
39. Astrance
40. Nihonryori Ryugin

41-50

41. The restaurants at Meadowood
42. L'Ambroisie
43. Maison Troisgros
44. Maison Pic
45. The Test Kitchen
46. Restaurant Andrew Fairlie
47. Al Sorriso
48. Roberta Sudbrack
49. Schloss Berg
50. Maison Bras

51 - 60

51. L'Auberge du Vieux Puits
52. 7 Chome Kyoboshi
53. Martin Berasategui
54. Alain Ducasse at The Dorchester
55. The French Laundry
56. Attica
57. Nahm
58. Vue de Monde
59. L'Atelier de Joel Robuchon Etoile
60. Tetsuya's

61 - 70

61. Waldhotel Sonnora
62. L20
63. Arzak
64. Dal Pescatore
65. Tantris
66. Eden-Roc Restaurant
67. Restaurant Patrick Guilbaud
68. L'Arpege
69. Mathias Dahlgren
70. La Vague D'Or

71 - 80

71. De Karmeliet
72. Da Vittorio
73. Restaurant de L'Hotel de Ville
74. Le Gavroche
75. Ledoyen
76. Amaya
77. Les Pres D'Eudenie
78. Sant Pau
79. Schloss Schauenstein
80. Kitcho

81 - 90

81. Joel Robuchon, Tokyo
82. Le Quartier Francais
83. Nobu Los Angeles
84. Ristorante Puny
85. Rust en Vrede
86. Amador
87. Pangea
88. Quay
89. Melisse
90. The Cliff


91-100

91. Ultraviolet
92. Sushi Saito
93. Taillevent
94. The Waterside Inn
95. Steirereck
96. Nobu London
97. Momofuku Ko
98. L'Oasis
99. Zuma
100. L'Auberge du Pont de Collonges


Read more: http://www.dailymail.co.uk/travel/article-2595381/The-best-restaurants-world-revealed-Heston-Blumenthal-gets-mentioned-twice.html#ixzz2y8x0WKNj
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這樣的一桌子菜,大概是拜祭用的

Sharon Lam shared 林金城's photo.
4 hrs · 
這樣的一桌子菜,大概是拜祭用的,有時看著,覺得有幾碟內容近似,我家也是這樣,豬肉煮海參,冬菇炆豬肉,豆腐炆髮菜蠔豉,諸如此類。食多幾餐,有幾碟就會歸埋一碟,而味道又會出奇的融和,一食入魂,那個汁撈潮州粥,人間美味,所以我其實係幾鐘意食隔夜餸。而如果唔係由細食到大,實在又很難會下到箸。可惜我連潮州粥都未識煲。係啦,其實學乜人整麵包,必修科都未做好。

Follow · 6 hrs 
 

挑剔成性,然而到了第十本書,再嚴謹一點是好事。
今早在母親的墓前請示,倏然聽到一把聲音:傻仔,誰說一定要擠在書展推出而讓自己悠閒不起來呢?於是,我便有了”理由”,讓《知食份子3》再多耗3個月的時光。反正,出書在這個地方是件”擾民傷財”的事,慢一點,無妨。

Wednesday, 2 April 2014

三豉蒸青衣頭

2014年4月3日《信報》
劉健威 <此時此刻>
這天晚上試做江獻珠女士的心水菜式,七菜一羹之外,譚強還捎來一些食材,多弄了兩味:其一是韭菜豬紅──這本來尋常不過,但不經不覺,此菜在人間消失久矣,原來其正豬紅並不易得,街上吃到的恐怕都是冒充者。其二是豬尾豬筋炆蓮藕,這也是普通食材,難得的都是本地出產,蓮藕鬆而近於粉,豬尾豬筋清且鮮,都吃得舒服。
但這晚最大驚喜莫過於三豉蒸青衣頭,江女士亦對此至為滿意。
在江女士的菜譜中,本有三豉蒸石斑腩,讀得吸引,很想試做;但心中忐忑,不知找不找得到好的斑腩。哪知當天中午逛街巿,竟然碰到青衣頭半個,重一斤六両,當即買下,並拍了照片給兒子,正想告訴他怎麼弄,真的心有靈犀,我的短訊未發出,他的已傳來了:「三豉蒸」。
非常住家的一道菜,似乎也不見有哪家食肆供應。三豉就是豆豉、麵豉和欖豉(角),將三者剁碎,再加果皮絲、椒粒和魚頭一起蒸。三豉各有風味,合起來味道十分豐富,頗能提鮮。
論味道,蘇眉頭味道帶清香,優勝於青衣;但青衣比蘇眉罕見,尤其是十斤以上的,更是難得;結果蒸出來皮香肉滑,人人都愛吃。真的食有食緣,三豉和魚頭頗和諧,相信較之魚腩有過之而無不及;但只能憑巧遇,要是想翌日再吃,恐再無覓處了。
始終最愛吃魚頭,愈大愈好吃。念念不忘的是年前在澳門煥記吃到條二百多斤重的野生龍躉,我只取其下巴部位──有骨有肉有皮,膠質又重,吃得十分過癮。又一次,買到一個野生的黃鱲鯧頭,用來炆,又是鮮美滑腴;吃罷好幾年都忘不了。
此外,吃過一次涼瓜蒜頭豆豉炆馬友頭,又是甘香腴美,叫人回味無窮。以後見到青衣頭都不放過。

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