Thursday, 15 June 2017

Passadis del Pep海鮮餐廳

2017年6月12日《信報》
劉健威 <此時此刻>
Passadis del Pep海鮮餐廳
常常這樣想:光顧食肆一次下定論不太公平,不給機會給人,也不給機會給自己——就算花得起錢,找一家好的、合心水的食肆實在不容易。
有些食肆真的吃一次就夠,譬如用料粗賤、味精、雞精下得重⋯⋯但有些食肆用心用力做,但失手的機會總是有的;另方面,也可能是這天餐式並不合自己⋯⋯
列寧有句話說得很好:麻鷹有時飛得比母雞還要低,但老鷹是老鷹,母雞是母雞,母雞是永遠飛不起來的。(論盧森堡)
這天就是有趣的經驗:一位嘴刁的饞友向我推薦一家巴塞隆拿的海鮮餐廳Passadis del Pep,這家餐廳我早幾年吃過了,印象只是一般;但見朋友懇切推介,便和幾位朋友再去吃一趟。果然比上一頓好得多——我們叫好幾道菜,大部分吃得滿意:先來的是小鯡魚,味道鹹鮮腴美;再來是番茄片,上面鋪了切得薄薄、好像carpaccio的生馬介休,再澆上橄欖油,簡單好看而清鮮;在烤箱烤熟的大蟶子比香港看到的小一點,但肉嫰而味鮮;貝類來了兩種——炒蜆有別於葡菜,汁液不算多,蜆頗肥美;另一種是像鴨蛋大、很多銳角的海螺,但吃起來螺肉輭而嫩,一點不韌;螺殼中都泡着味道醇厚的橄欖油,所以吃起來更是滋味。蝦來了三種:小龍蝦(Scampi)是用洋葱絲煑的,蝦肉顯得更鮮甜;蝦頭膏多而鮮,同行女士有不吃蝦頭者,蝦頭都往我的碟子放,我可吃得痛快了。西班牙紅蝦是我吃過最好吃的蝦,他們鋪一層幼鹽在上面焗熟,鹹鮮動人。跟着來了兩隻炒的藍龍蝦,肉稍「削」,但味道甚鮮。
此店的海鮮甚新鮮,故烹調都採用最簡單方法,僅以橄欖油,鹽突出食材本味,吃得一位從不吃蝦的朋友都破戒。

Quique Dacosta

2017年6月14日《信報》
劉健威 <此時此刻>
Quique Dacosta
美不勝收的一頓——從沒吃過那麼精緻、豐富,以海鮮為主的一頓。那是對地中海海鮮的一闋讚歌。
餐廳叫Quique Dacosta,米芝蓮三星,位於巴塞隆拿四百多公里的Denia,我們開車去,來回花了十小時,值得!
餐廳是幢漂亮的白房子,位於海灘旁;抵埗,他們先款待我們在雅致的花園喝杯Cava汽酒,吃三道前菜:用煙熏辣椒做的湯,當地產的小青口和南瓜配蟹肉。青口異常鮮嫩,吃進口中,人人都嘩叫起來;南瓜弄成三種形態:湯、脆片和汁液,和拆成絲的蟹肉一起吃,很清鮮。進入室內,先送上的是餐廳的禮物:一隻當地紅蝦——西班牙紅蝦已是蝦中之王,而此蝦更是王中之王,鮮美得無與倫比;我說此店值得遠道而來,是這頓吃了過去從未吃過即麼好的青口、紅蝦、鮟鱇魚肝和他們做的鵝肝醬。四道菜都是至高水準,會令你畢生難忘。
整頓午餐共有二十道菜,吃了三個多小時,不一一細說了,只挑主要的介紹一下:叫人意外的是他們也吃那類似烏魚子,一整條的鯔魚子和鱈魚(long)魚子,略加醃製,鹹鮮可口;金槍魚生碎粒本平常,但配了鮮汁就好吃得很,也見日本料理的影響;類似米紙的脆片是杏仁做的、加上杏仁切片和杏仁汁,配的是蝦腦做的啫喱,廚藝細膩又具創意;鮟鱇魚肉和肝配個鮮中帶點酸的汁一起吃,魚肝滑膩無比,比日本人做得更好。
另一道好菜是生蠔弄成像豆腐那麼滑的「慕絲」,上面放了魚子醬,再伴以忌廉團和佛手瓜蓉……
十多道菜都是烹調得細膩有新意的海鮮,唯一肉類是鴨子(最差勁的一道菜),吃起來無論視覺味覺,都煥然一新;米芝蓮三星絕對名副其實,愛吃海鮮的朋友不容錯過。
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Sunday, 11 June 2017

Culturally Unique Breakfasts from Around the World


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Breakfast is the most important meal of the day, though it may look and taste different depending on where you're from. While in America it is not out of the ordinary to have a stack of flapjacks and bacon as a morning meal, it is wildly different from Thailand's customary fish, pork, and rice dish.
World traveling enthusiast Victoria Philpott took note of the various combinations of platters and variety of breakfasts commonly eaten each day along her travels. Rounding up fifty different and delicious meals that are typically eaten in dozens of countries, the globe-trotter shares an appetizing set of images on her blog from various sources of culturally unique breakfasts.
Of course, everyone's taste palette is different but it is interesting, nonetheless, to see how different cultures interpret the best meal to start your day. It is also best to keep in mind that not all dishes are strictly the only breakfast anyone in any given country eats. Sometimes there just isn't enough time to prepare a full English breakfast and, other times, you want more than a simple croissant.
Top: England – Beans, sausages, bacon, eggs, mushrooms, hash browns, toast, and a cup of tea. (Image via LunaMoth116)
Iran

Naan bread with butter and jam. When a light breakfast just isn't going to hit the spot Iranians eat halim. Halim is a mixture of wheat, cinnamon, butter and sugar cooked with shredded meat in huge pots. You can eat it hot or cold. You can also see the Iranian version of an omelet here too. (Image via kamshots)
Philippines

Local fruits like mangos, rice, and little sausages (known as longganisa). When fried with salt and garlic cloves it's known as sinangag. The sinangag is then combined with eggs, meats and beans. (Image via supafly)
Scotland

Slab of haggis served alongside a fat-fried egg and square sausages known as Lorne. (Image via David Blaikie)
Germany

Wursts, local cheeses, and freshly baked bread, all washed back with a strong coffee. (Image via withassociates)
France

Croissants, plain or with crushed almonds, butter, chocolate or cream. (Image via Pierre-Olivier Carles)
Sweden

Swedish pancake known as Pannkakor, which is similar to a crepe, served with sweet fruity filling. (Image via terren in Virginia)
Poland

Jajecznica: a mound of those same scrambled eggs, covered with slices of Amadeus's custom-made kielbasa and accompanied by two potato pancakes. (Image via Kitchen Chick)
Turkey

A few varieties of cheese, butter, olives, eggs, tomatoes, cucumbers, jam, honey, and spicy meat. (Image via pocketcultures)
Australia

Vegemite spread on toast. (Image via s2art)
Japan

Tofu with fish and rice soaked in soy sauce. (Image via avlxyz)
Thailand

A minty, spicy fish with a sweet and spicy pork, served with rice (Image via Kojach)
Egypt

A dish called Foul Madamas that's made from fava beans, chickpeas, garlic and lemon. Above you'll see the dish topped with olive oil, cayenne, tahini sauce, a hard boiled egg, and some diced green veggies. (Image via goblin box (queen of ad hoc bento))
Colombia

In Cundinamarca this changua dish is very popular. It's made from milk, scallions and cheese. (Image via manuela y daniel)
India

Indian tofu scramble, lentils, veggie sausage and banana pepper toast with rosemary roasted potatoes. (Image via arvind grover)
Mexico

Beef tips, chilequiles, and other assorted goodies eaten in Manzanillo. Nachos, cheese, and beans always feature heavily and a delicious, spicy breakfast is the norm. (Image via Jeff Kramer)
Ghana

A dish called waakye. It's basically rice cooked in beans. (Image via Robyn Lee)
America

Homemade thick pancakes with bacon, syrup and blueberries. (Image via JenCooks)
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Friday, 5 May 2017

2017年5月4日《信報》
劉健威 .<此時此刻>

烏弟和東海

到汕頭,滷水鵝是必吃,而賣滷水鵝的店子又以烏弟最為出名。烏弟生意旺盛,每天客如流水,相信賺錢不少;只是,許多年了,店子簡陋依然,大部分客人還是坐在街頭吃,老闆就是沒想過待客人好一點。滷水香,鵝肉嫩,是這裏的特色;我們叫了好幾碟滷鵝,頭脖、腩部和鵝掌,就是不叫鵝片;入鄉隨俗,潮州人吃滷鵝是愛吃下欄多於一本正經的鵝肉。早上十一時稍過就開始吃了,他們每天把鵝賣完就收工,作息不定時。

離開那天,我特意去「二八」花近八百塊買了個老鵝頭帶回香港,可惜稍偏鹹,翻熱過程又出了點錯誤,糟蹋了。

和同行朋友都一致同意,在汕頭吃得最好的除了烏弟滷鵝,就是東海酒家的豬腳翅。只有兩頓晚飯,吃東海還是大林苑煞費躊躇;只是林自然走了,大林苑能否保持水準端是疑問,而東海也供應豆醬蟹,所以決定去東海。

東海的豬腳翅真的叫人驚艷——也是高湯熬的魚翅,只是加豬腳再煮,湯變稠了,肉味也渾厚得多,叫人一吃難忘。

也循例吃了上湯灼螺片,但覺得味道尋常,物非所值。

想看看豆醬蟹到底是怎樣做的,老闆鍾成泉先生給我示範:大量金蒜墊瓦煲底,上面鋪了蟹件;然後將用芝麻醬、白糖調過的普寧豆醬灑在蟹件上;再鋪上薑葱辣椒,略加水;蓋上,大約焗十五分鐘即成。

總算曉得大致怎麼做這道菜,回去改良一下,期待效果更好一點。

東海做得好的菜還有炸肝花,類似廣東大良的野雞卷,以豬肝和肥豬肉作為主要材料,又香又邪惡的一道菜。清湯牛肉丸也不錯,肉丸是他們自己打的,肉裏加了肥豬肉粒和方魚蓉,又爽又香。

東海做的菜夠穩重,沒來錯。

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