Sunday, 10 November 2013

The University of Gastronomic Sciences THREE-YEAR UNDERGRADUATE DEGREE


History & Mission

The University of Gastronomic Sciences, founded in 2004 by the international non-profit Slow Food in cooperation with the Italianregions of Piedmont and Emilia-Romagna, is a ministerially recognized, private non-profit institution.
Its goal is to create an international research and education center for those working on renewing farming methods, protecting biodiversity, and building an organic relationship between gastronomy and agricultural science.
The result is a new professional figure – the gastronome – skilled in production, distribution, promotion, and communication of high-quality foods. Gastronomes are the next generation of educators and innovators, editors and multimedia broadcasters, marketers of fine products, and managers of consortia, businesses, and tourism companies.
UNISG students, hailing from around the world, gain dynamic experiences in artisanal and industrial food production, thanks to complementary education in both science and humanities, sensory training, and hands-on learning during study trips (field seminars) across five continents.

Subject Areas


Both humanities and sciences are taught within the undergraduate program. Practical learning, lab work, and study travel to discover products and their regions of origin complement in-class lessons in order to provide students with an interdisciplinary approach to the world of gastronomy.
The following list of disciplines and course modules comprise the Gastronomic Sciences program of study. Each may include seminars dedicated to a specific issue, and course content may vary from year to year

YEAR I


Module I: Animal biologyThe course aims at providing the instruments necessary to understand the structure and functions of animal organisms. The course is divided into three parts: cytology, histology and anatomy and physiology of the animals of alimentary interest. This teaching is an important basis for the cultural training of operators of the agri-food sector and provides the student with the necessary knowledge to deal with profit studies concerning the production and processing of food of animal origin.
Module II: Food BotanyThis module will introduce basic concepts of plant sciences (plant biology and plant taxonomy) and will especially focus on the most relevant food plants (esp. focusing on their taxonomy, sensory, health properties, and cultural history). A few of them will be identified during practical workshops in class and botanical excursions. The module will also focus on ethnobotany, i.e. the link between plants and humans from historical, economical, and socio-cultural perspectives.
Module I: Fundamentals of economics and computer scienceSection concerning Fundamentals of Computer Science aims to provide knowledge of the basics of Computer Science, from hardware, software and network architectures, to methods for encoding information. The objective of this course is to enable students to have a complete and updated overview of key topics related to the vast world of Information Technology (IT), and know how to steer and operate the latest computer technology. To this end, this course aims to provide both conceptual knowledge to keep up the pace with the constantly changing industry, both the technical tools to move at ease among the most popular applications, like office suite tools (e.g., spreadsheets and databases) and those for publishing content online.
Section concerning Fundamentals of Economics aim to provide the basic knowledge to understand the drivers of the agrofood system. The course covers both microeconomics and macroeconomics. Topics include: analysis of the agrifood supply chain, the consumer choices, the competition, the role of the government in the market regulation, the analysis of inflation and unemployment. Primary emphasis is placed upon stimulating the individual application of the contents to a case study.
Module II: StatisticsThe course is divided into two modules, Statistics and Marketing Research
1. Statistics: Students will become familiar with basic statistical concepts and learn to carry out simple statistical analyses using a software application package
2. Market Research: Students will acquire basic knowledge about the key elements of strategic marketing, including the role of market research and the principal research methods utilized in the field of agribusiness / agricultural sector.
The course provides the necessary notions of general chemistry, organic chemistry and biochemistry to understand the molecular mechanisms at the basis of the transformations which occur in food during the various phases of its production and of its gastronomic transformation.
The main groups of substances found in food will be studied: water, carbohydrates, lipids, proteins and vitamins, as well as the basic nomenclature of organic compounds.
The physical states of the main food systems (solutions, dispersions, emulsions, foams, gels) will be discussed.
There are two parts to the course:
HUMAN PHYSIOLOGY
- To analyze the physiology of the digestive and renal systems and the basic principles of related pathologies.
- To know the basic principles of the physiology of the olfactory sense.
- To analyze the mechanism of actions and bio-activity of food botanicals and herbal remedies, which may mitigate the dysfunctions of the digestive and kidney systems.
MOLECULAR ASPECTS OF TASTE
The course has the aim to clarify that “flavor” is a combination of connected sensations which food induces and which we can divide schematically into physical sensations, consistency, chemical sensations, and chemesthetic sensations. The apparatus and receptors used to detect the stimuli will be described, as well as the basic physiology of taste. More relevance will be given to the molecular aspects of the interaction between tastants and their receptors.

The course aims to provide basic knowledge of the microbial world and to deepen the main microbial groups involved in production, processing, storage and consumption of food. In particular, the student should have knowledge of the structure and function of a microbial cell and its metabolism, of the main sources of microbial contamination along the supply chain and distribution of food and the mechanisms of infection and intoxication of the main pathogens; and last but not least, to acquire the knowledge necessary to assess the microbiological quality and hygiene in food preparation.Students will learn the basis of Food Microbiology and general human physiology.
There are two parts to the course:
HISTORY OF AGRICULTURE AND FOOD: In the first brief part, the course is about some important changes in the agriculture during the Ancient and Modern period. In the second part, the course aims to explain and discuss the history of agriculture during the Contemporary period.
HISTORY OF FOOD: At the end of the course students will obtain knowledge and research methodology to study history of food history. The course will address the theme of the history of food in its historical and anthropological aspects, examining the most significant aspects of a cultural and an economic-social. Particular attention will be paid to the ancient Mediterranean cultures, the European Middle Ages and the “Columbian Exchange”, with constant comparisons with contemporary reality.
The course aims to stimulate a more aware and in depth usage of the basic computer tools, delivering adequate knowledge to evaluate and choose the hardware, to work online (local or wide area). It will be also analyzed in details the most common basic software and their open source alternatives, the advanced features of office software, both in their local or online usage, also with mobile devices.

The University’s official languages are English and Italian. To improve understanding, students are offered grammar, conversation and reading lessons, written English for Italians and Italian for non-Italians. The classes are divided according to level of proficiency.
Study trips are a new form of experiential learning study that enables future “gastronomes”, using their five senses, to learn in the field by following supply chains and understanding biodiversity.
The trips include diversified educational activities, including:
- Academic lessons with local teachers, historians and experts in the eco-gastronomy field;
- Visits to producers, businesses, restaurants and other notable figures in the food and wine sector;
- Practical culinary workshops with chefs and restaurateurs;
- Cultural tours to discover the region;
- Visits to traditional markets, Slow Food producers and food communities.
During the first year of the course, the regional study trips allow students to deepen their knowledge of regional Italian gastronomy, while in the thematic study trips, students learn about important culinary products including pasta, coffee, cold meats and cheeses.

YEAR II

Module I: Animal productionThe course deals with the health and welfare of farm animals: analyzes the breeds of cattle, swine and avian species, as well as nutrition and comparisons between different methods of farming. The course is also designed aquaculture in salt water. The meat is examined in terms of nutritional and microbiological testing: analyzing the cuts of meat and their processing, from slaughter to the table (with respect to beef, pork, chicken, rabbit, lamb and goat).
Module II: Crop ProductionThe essence of this course is at first the application of ecological concepts and principles to the design and management of sustainable food production systems.
The specific objectives of the course are:
- to develop a basic knowledge on crop production
- to emphasize the principles of crop production
- to present crop production as a science, an art and a business
- to introduce some new concepts and trends in crop production
- to provide good reference on the subject of crop production
This course will be focused on the presentation and application of the methods internationally used to scientifically analyze the sensory properties of food, particularly important in determining the acceptability and preference of food products by consumers. By means of a balanced combination of lectures, theoretical and laboratory exercises (several kind of food products will be tasted), students will be trained in the process of designing, executing sensory tests, statistically analyzing sensory data and reporting their results.
Module I: Introduction to food engineeringThe aim of the course is to provide the necessary tools to understand and describe the main processes of food preservation and processing and define the relationship between the production process and product quality.
Module II: Food processingThe course aims at acquainting students with diverse technologies for food production.
Module I: History of wineThe course aims to:
- teach students about the history of key-elements and trends in the wine industry.
- Show students several methods (reflection, approach, analysis) for evaluating cultural issues in the history of wine. in relation to cultural problems related to Wine History
- provide deep knowledge of the factors which aided the development of wine and food systems.
- offer students basic elements for critical analysis of sources and of historical and cultural problems related to wine.
Module II: History of gastronomyThe course consists of a broad examination of Italian recipe books from medieval origins to the twentieth century. Can one consider the recipe book as a primary source for the study of the history of the kitchen? What are the limits and what are the factors to consider? What information is clear and what must be inferred from reading between the lines? These questions will be answered by a direct approach to the sources accompanied by appropriate references.
European legal roots is the course which aims to explain the basic concepts of that system invented to regulate the human behavior in the civil societies which we call “law”. This system was born in Ancient Rome and Athens, thanks to different “roots” and philosophical thoughts. Consensus, democracy, justice and freedom are faced by the legal concepts of property, contract, family. A guide to discover the relationship between values and rights is our introduction to the world of juridical phenomenon.
Study trips are a new form of experiential learning study that enables future “gastronomes”, using their five senses, to learn in the field by following supply chains and understanding biodiversity.
The trips include diversified educational activities, including:
- Academic lessons with local teachers, historians and experts in the eco-gastronomy field;
- Visits to producers, businesses, restaurants and other notable figures in the food and wine sector;
- Practical culinary workshops with chefs and restaurateurs;
- Cultural tours to discover the region;
- Visits to traditional markets, Slow Food producers and food communities.
During the second year of the course, the regional study trips allow students to deepen their knowledge of regional gastronomy across Europe, while in the thematic study trips, students learn about other essential culinary products including oil, wine and large-scale production as found in the confectionary industry.

YEAR III

Module I: Economics of an agribusinessThe issues concerning the evaluation of teaching processes implemented by entrepreneurs in agribusiness companies. In particular, in addition to classical methods, mono-criteria type of money (budget, cost / revenue, etc..). Ample space is given to multi-criteria evaluation methods, through which the contractor may express an opinion based on several factors of assessment, be they monetary and non monetary. As part of the multi-criteria evaluation, the course will be both the “quantitative”, both “qualitative.
Module II: Marketing of quality food productsThe course aims to provide a basic knowledge of marketing, with an overview of the main issues affecting marketing. The course also aims at developing key marketing tools applicable to food quality.
Module III: Food lawThe course will focus on the legal aspects of food production and marketing, throughout the analysis of both national and European sources of food law. The first part of the course will address the legal and institutional framework, i.e. the key European Institutions, the procedures for the adoption of European legislation and the impact of the judgements of the European Court of Justice. The second part will focus on the food law both at European and national level. This will allow a careful analysis of the main aspects of food law (e.g. food safety and security, labelling, advertising), from the point of view of the implementation of the European law by Member States, in particular Italy. The aim of the course is to enable students to efficiently handle issues and cases and provide them with a comprehensive overview of the dynamics of food law through a multi-disciplinary approach.
The course objective is to contribute, through a clear and systematic explanation of restoration topics and technologies, to form innovative interdisciplinary professionals able “to develop and optimize the production, processing and marketing of products food” according to the principles of the new science of gastronomy: “GOOD, CLEAN, and FAIR”.
The course development methodology will be a specific analysis of all elements that directly or indirectly determine and/or influence the final meal product, analyzing every aspect of the process according to a balanced system concerning a trade and tourism catering.
The course proposes both a precise analysis of the different areas of restoration, identifying case studies and common aspects, as well as a systematic illustration of the techniques and production technologies analyzing its functional, hygiene, operational, administrative and regulatory aspects. The course will evaluate and propose a balanced system that contributes to define a “global quality” of the final product.
The main goal of the course is to let the students understand how to plan a systemic, coherent, complex food and wine tourism project related to a region and/or a company. Food and Wine tourism products and services, if properly planned and managed, create a perfect blend of sustainable and cultural tourism and promote the character of a geographic region renowned for its high quality agricultural and food products/produce. The students will find practical suggestions and guidelines for creating, planning and drawing up itineraries of discovery, including how to:
- identify food and wine tourists and get to know their tastes
- identify and respond to the main characteristics of this rapidly evolving sector
- promote different regions and their products effectively
- restructure or adapt local farms or small holdings operating in the food and wine sectors to meet visitors’ expectations
- create customized itineraries involving local producers
- encourage local producers to recognize the importance of providing visitors with a warm welcome and a satisfying visit
- structure itineraries, develop tours and plan brochures and catalogues in such a way as to protect the carrying capacity of an area and to enhance the visitor experience
- create ‘themed’ itineraries, each reflecting an unmistakable flavour and offering the very best that a region can offer.
This is the only course concerning sociology during the three-year undergraduate program in Gastronomic Sciences and probably many students don’t know sociology.
The first part describes more important sociological authors and themes; the second deals with the more considerable topics of sociology of environment and territory.
This course is designed to develop a foundation in human nutrition and to apply these principles to the gastronomic sciences.
A “gastronomic” nutritional model must take into consideration the strict relationship between food and health, but organoleptic aspects and environmental impact of individual or group choices must be considered as well.
Starting from food classification, this course will include food consumption and evolution, nutritional claims, influence of media in everyday choices.
Nutritional status evaluation and food-related illnesses will also be considered.

This course’s main aim is to present the principal theoretical themes of cultural anthropology, with particular emphasis on the categories of oral and written transmission. Students will examine the cultural and symbolic role played by food in traditional and modern cultures through an analysis of the structure of the calendar as well as the timing of special occasions throughout the year.

Module I: Taste aesthetics and philosophyThe course will provide theoretical tools to interpret the complexity of the food in the form of critical thinking.
The course offers a comprehensive description of the aesthetic potential of food through two aspects: consumption aesthetics and production aesthetics. Students will investigate the area of interest of aesthetic taste – with issues of taste, criticism, judgment – and that of creation – with the themes of cooking and the fertile relationship between art and food.
Through a series of examples and case studies, students will develop a new aesthetic understanding through taste sensitivity and gastronomy.
Module II: Semiotics of perception and foodThe course aims to develop a critical attitude towards the language of food, which includes all food-related cultural phenomena that tend to produce, in space and time, social and human significance: from sensory processes related to taste, to culinary operations, from a codification of gastronomy to rituals of eating together, from dietary regimens to the forms of life built through specific food choices. Secondarily, the course aims to provide a methodology of analysis of different texts and different media that such language tends to produce or use, with particular attention to contemporaneity.
Study trips are a new form of experiential learning study that enables future “gastronomes”, using their five senses, to learn in the field by following supply chains and understanding biodiversity.
The trips include diversified educational activities, including:
- Academic lessons with local teachers, historians and experts in the eco-gastronomy field;
- Visits to producers, businesses, restaurants and other notable figures in the food and wine sector;
- Practical culinary workshops with chefs and restaurateurs;
- Cultural tours to discover the region;
- Visits to traditional markets, Slow Food producers and food communities.
During the third year of the course, the regional study trips allow students to deepen their knowledge of regional gastronomy across Europe and beyond, while the thematic study trips provide students with the opportunity to learn aboutbeer, fishing and mass distribution channels.

史上第一!土溝農村美術館千人辦桌,本土小農相挺 - 台灣有史以來最星光熠熠的辦桌


文/ 上下游記者林慧貞

崑濱伯冠軍米、灣寶女俠洪箱地瓜、全台1%有機野蓮⋯⋯,這麼夢幻的菜色,出現在土溝「農們囍宴音樂會」的餐桌上!土溝農村美術館昨天開展,製作團隊挑戰千人辦桌,破天荒找來17位有機無毒小農,提供在地新鮮食材,許多民眾第一次在辦桌吃到整根咬的地瓜和筊白筍,驚嘆「原來食物的原味這麼好吃」;2千元募款門票銷售一空,為第二年的土溝農村美術館打響第一炮。

農業版星光大道,辦桌揭開藝術展序幕

在土溝村蹲點十年的台南市土溝農村文化營造協會,去年首次提出「村是美術館,美術館是村」的概念,以整個土溝村為畫布,邀請藝術家和當地居民共同創作,開辦台灣第一個農村美術館;「2013村之屋當代藝術展」更上層樓,以傳統農家「辦桌」文化揭開序幕,入口處還設置喜氣洋洋的紅色背板、專業打光,擺放香蕉、苦瓜,稻米花籃,彷如農業版星光大道。

六點不到,現場就擠滿上千位慕名而來的民眾,12道料理也沒讓人失望,有後壁之光崑濱伯的冠軍米、台南麻豆曾昭銘全台1%有機野蓮、好蝦囧男社返鄉青年李富正的生態養殖白蝦,甚至用飼養四個月的古早公雞燉雞湯,連以往端不上檯面的地瓜、玉米都變成主角,工作人員還幫他們取個酷炫的名字:「土地含吉,正義番麥」,因為提供地瓜的灣寶洪箱是當地抵抗土地徵收的重要功臣,在高雄種玉米的啟尚哥曾出借稻田割出「土地正義」。

為了呈現食物原味,日本創意料理主廚陳俊翔,和後壁第三代總舖師賴明聖設計的專屬菜單,把整段小黃瓜、筊白筍、白飯加Q梅,全都端上桌。「吃辦桌這麼多年,還是第一次吃到整顆地瓜、筊白筍!」來自苗栗後龍的陳小姐驚嘆,從來不曉得食物的原味這麼好吃,尤其是又甜又綿密的地瓜,讓身為在地人的她也跟著驕傲了起來。

單日收入破紀錄,全數投入農村美術館營運

看到近乎滿場的觀眾露出滿足的笑容,籌辦活動的土溝農村美術館執行長呂耀中大大鬆了一口氣,「開始前一個月只賣出2、30桌,我整個挫咧等,」一開始許多人不看好,他得到處拜託親朋好友,心想大概要賠錢了,沒想到活動前兩週突然湧入大筆報名人潮,票券銷售一空,變成別人來拜託他「喬」位置,「許多人嫌2千元太貴,但我想提升農產品的品質,讓大家知道社區辦活動不是都吃免錢的,我們的農產有這個價值。」

這次喜宴門票所得約150萬,創下台灣社區辦活動募款單日收入紀錄,扣掉成本,會全數投入美術館營運。

過去半年呂耀中跑遍全台各地,好不容易找到17位可以配合的農友,但小農的品質和規格不像慣行農法,香菇有大有小、古早雞比一般辦桌吃的雞大兩倍,讓廚師一個頭兩個大,試做了四、五次,「吃到我都變胖了」,才終於有現在的成果。

香蕉地瓜當主菜,農民倍感驕傲

雖然過程艱辛,但農民的堅持和誠意讓呂耀中覺得很窩心,前一陣子颱風過境,有農友特地為了他們搶收蓮花;溪州農友陳蒼鄢,甚至因為對自己的小黃瓜不滿意,重新為土溝種一園小黃瓜,「台灣有這麼多認真堅持的農民,我想顛覆觀念,讓民眾知道,香蕉、地瓜、小黃瓜也是可以當主菜的。」

洪箱說,從來沒想過,自己親手種的地瓜也能成為辦桌料理,看到大家吃得開心她也很滿意,現場拍照指數最高的「偶像」崑濱伯,也靦腆地說好棒,「不過還是我自己煮的比較好吃啦!」

台灣有史以來最星光熠熠的辦桌,在徐徐微風和現場樂團的音樂聲中落幕,不過土溝農村美術館才正要開始,每個週末六日,藝術村展場都會開放,平常也可到社區觀賞居民和藝術家共同創作的裝置藝術,展期到明年3月1日。
1

■只有兩天半的慢麵


每天醒來,還活著,又賺到一天生命了!

兩個抱持這種感懷的中年男人,若是在東部小鎮合開一家麵店,會是何等風情呢?

杪秋時,抵臨池上,想要在街上覓得一間午餐之地。短短的中山街,好幾家我都熟稔,甚至一些歇業多年的,都約略知悉。這回在路的盡頭,卻望見一低矮檜木老房,掛了個甚是典雅的名號「甘盛堂」。乍看以為診所或藥鋪,接近時才知是家麵店。

走進去,更為驚喜。素樸的木造空間,不像小鎮如今的格局,卻也非城市的刻意淡雅,好像合該就是這等爽朗乾淨。

只見一爿牆掛著昔時旅舍舊文物,比如旅館認證、旅客居住守則。另一爿,麵食的價目和內容張貼著。價目很簡單,只有四種麵食,兩道小菜。除此,還有這間食堂的介紹,敘述著麵食的製作內容和信念。譬如:

「與池上在地小農合作,精心培育美味無毒的健康蔬菜,加入我們的料理包中,更開發出以池上米精磨的米粉,調合適當比例麵粉,製成低鈉且不含防腐劑及化學添加物的『池上米麵條』……….」

初次看到這張海報,對即將出爐的麵食自是期待。但這幾排字人人會寫,口感是否真如敘述,吃了便見真章。我跟友人都點了牛筯麵,等吃第一口麵條,再吮一瓢湯,都震懾地停下了。

最近旅行,難得吃到如此少油少鹽的麵食,我彷彿回到了家裡用餐。

隔天中午,另一池上友人再請我去,我自是欣然應允。這回點了酢漿麵,無湯食相伴,舌尖更能感受麵條的質地。很多美食吃完,常只有味蕾的快感,接下是半個時日的不舒服。但在家裡吃的,絕少有這等困擾和感概,甘盛堂亦然。

去年底,這間麵店出現大街時,以米食出名的池上人進來光顧。油膩慣的人,還真不習慣。但懂得食材之好,了解養生之道者,都驚喜不已。老板撇開一般小店重鹹重味的湯頭,每道麵後,似乎隱含著一個微妙的信念。

晚上麵店打洋了,我再去拜訪他們。對坐在不擺麵食的空桌,終於有了更清楚的認識。

老板是妻舅,剛巧同時發生大病,一個換腎,另一位換肝。兩人不約而同,鬼門關走過一遭,再回來享受餘生。為了養病,他們來這喜愛的小鎮旅居。後來看上此一木造舊屋,決定開一家麵條工廠。承租他們的老板是好友,剛巧又患有糖尿病。把三人的病況有趣地綁在一起,遂有此諧音之店名,甘盛堂。

他們考量身體的狀況,原本只想把在地好米研發為米麵條,冷凍後宅配到外地。但在當地人的期待下,才不經心地嚐試開店。甘盛堂營業時間很獨特,只有周末假日,兩天半。每星期四,他們在池上製作麵條,星期五開門營業,星期日中午便結束打洋。坐車返高雄,回到各自的醫院看診。

一個人對食材的認知,只要聆聽他如何買菜便清楚。他們分析,池上菜市場是小農經濟。幾種基本必備的佐料,諸如蔥、蒜和薑等,都是在地老婦人種的。長相雖醜小,但老人家無錢施肥下藥,較無農藥殘留問題。西海岸運來的蔬菜,日光若未普照,有些農藥仍會殘留在上面。譬如小黃瓜,看似在地的,也不能太放心,買回來總要日曬一陣,再好好清洗。

至於肉類,半封閉的台東,活體豬隻很少運出,多半是東部人自己食用,適合當做食材。特選澳洲進口的牛腱、牛筯,儘管是自然放牧牛隻,買回來還得再悉心去脂。

當然,最重要的仍是麵條。池上以米著稱,但難免發生盛產過量的窘境。如果能調製出好吃的米麵,或許能有效紓解,稻農也受惠。他們選擇池上主產的高雄139研發,以其黏稠搭配麵粉。

麵條成份有米食,下麵的時間往往要久一點,麵條才會在水裡散開,翻滾熟成。這等慢麵,客人必須耐心地等候。緣於此,每下一道煮食,都是精心調製,彷彿每碗都是做給自己吃。但價錢一般尋常,並未因特別功夫而調高。

他們原本要到池上養病,順便輕鬆工作。豈知賣麵做出口碑,被人家視為中年轉業成功。他們卻很了然,人生不多了,接下是贏餘,二天半就已額滿。

最近在台灣旅行,如此知足的食堂,大概就只邂逅這麼一家。

(本文發表於「獨立評論@天下2031.11.10)
Like

Sunday, 13 October 2013

一蘭拉麵-天神


香港的「一蘭」熱爆了,要排一小時隊哩,在這裡,走進去坐下就行。當然也因為是下午,覓食人潮尚未湧來。

昭和35年,「一蘭」誕生於福岡,九十年代銳意伸展,遍佈日本各地。除了福岡式的天然豚骨濃湯,還首創填表勾選和自閉小位,旁有夾板前有竹簾,躲在卡位中呼呼吃麵,一句話也不用說。

非常好吃,湯頭肥滿,濃稠得像羹,鮮腴得掉眉毛,可是加了他們特製的黑醋和辣粉,很神奇地輕盈了,絲毫不膩。 — at 一蘭拉麵-天神

Thursday, 26 September 2013

滬杭吃食新體驗

陳家廚坊 - TVB周刊 5/8/2013

夏日炎炎,雖然不是旅行好時光,卻抵不住美食的引誘,與一群朋友相約北上,到上海杭州一行。下午到達上海浦東機場,迎接我們的是攝氏38度或以上的高溫,以及看不到頭的車龍。
入住的是外灘的浦江飯店,這是一家有百多年歷史的酒店,樓高六層,西式的古色古香,木地板木樓梯,鑄鐵雕花的裝飾,堂皇的大吊燈,客房有壁爐裝飾,高得要爬上去的鬆軟大床,令人仿佛走進了時光隧道。大堂中掛着很多曾入住的名人照片,有愛恩斯坦、周恩來、瑪歌芳婷、差利卓別靈、美國前總統葛蘭、哲學家羅素等名人。
朋友為此行預早訂了頗「富貴」的兩頓晚餐和一頓友人招待的午餐,我說「富貴」的意思一是餐廳環境及裝修,二是精美的餐具和盤飾,三就是價錢。原來現在國內的高檔餐飲消費水平,早已趕上或超過香港,一頓飯人均消費五百至千多元人民幣是絕不驚訝,還未把昂貴的酒水計算在內,我們到杭州吃午飯,葡萄酒開瓶費就是人民幣350元,令我們這班香港人咋舌。
富貴餐是環境一流,餐具一流,盤飾一流。花樣百出的涼菜是江浙菜的特色,做得很精美,味道評分有80分,不過味精也太重了。熱菜方面很是失望,本來想吃的是地道的上海菜和杭州菜,可惜夾雜的總是半桶水的粵菜,據說這是高檔菜的時尚風氣。
三天吃了幾頓富貴餐,心裏老是只想找個地方吃碗好麵,結果天從人願,杭州入住的酒店附近,就是被稱為「江南大麵」的奎元館,位置在杭州解放路,斜對面是新華書店。
根據奎元館店中所寫:清同治六年(1867年),有一安徽人在杭州鼓樓望仙橋開了一家徽州麵館,生意清淡,沒甚名氣。一天,一個外地窮秀才來杭州趕考,進店要了一碗清湯麵,老板憐其寒酸,特意在碗底放了三只蛋,寓意「連中三元」。過後,老板也忘了此事。某日,一位衣飾華麗的年輕人走進店堂,落座後只要了碗清湯麵,老板正在疑惑,年輕人接着說:「底下放三只蛋」。老闆聞聲大悟,連連作揖道賀:「相公果然高中了!」忙治酒款待並請賜墨寶留念。秀才沉思片刻,題贈「魁元館」三字招牌,從此聲名鵲起,並逐漸形成了以寧式大麵著稱的專業麵食店,生意日漸興隆。後有一任老闆嫌「魁」字有「鬼」旁,為避諱改為「奎」字,一直沿用至今。
四十年代的奎元館已大有名氣,食客包括有梅蘭芳、蓋叫天、周璇等名伶名人,1945年,國民黨第十九路軍軍長蔡廷鍇將軍與李濟深到奎元館吃黃魚麵,蔡將軍吃得高興,即席揮筆疾書「東南獨創」四字,一時傳為佳話。
人說到杭州不去吃奎元館的麵,就等於沒有到過杭州。此話果然當真,奎元館的麵,煮而不糊,韌而嫩滑。這種麵叫做「坐麵」,自古沿用的是無錫的頂級麵粉,製麵師傅先用手把粉團搓至有勁,然後墊上一條碗口粗的竹槓,坐壓半小時而成。在解放路奎元館的大堂,就以鑄銅人像表現此種古老的製麵過程。
奎元館有地道的杭州菜,我們吃了西湖醋魚、杭州捲雞、刀板香蒸霉菜梗、筍乾菜蒸河蝦和蝦爆鱔麵,價錢不貴,味道很正統。當然,奎元館最著名的是寧式大麵,名氣最響噹噹的是片兒川麵和蝦爆鱔麵。
片兒川是奎元館最初起家時的百姓家常麵,已有百多年歷史,類似香港的雪菜肉絲麵。片兒川的澆頭是切成長方的筍片和瘦肉,加上雪裡蕻,用豬油爆過後加水汆燙,放在淥好的坐麵上而成。因為材料都切成片狀加水汆熟,川與汆同音,後來就叫做片兒川了。
蝦爆鱔麵,聽起來有點古怪,原來以前杭州錢塘一帶盛產鱔魚,價錢不高,而那時淡水河蝦並不多,是比較貴的食材。為了推銷鱔魚,就把鱔魚和河蝦相配,做成這個有特色的麵食。奎元館對食材要求很嚴格,規定只要大拇指粗的鱔魚,因為這個規格的鱔魚肉質最嫩滑。奎元館炒蝦爆鱔的做法是用三種油,先用菜油把鱔絲炸脆,再用豬油爆炒河蝦仁,加入鱔絲後用麻油燒成澆頭,用小菜碟裝好,湯麵另上。我們幾個人吃便叫了一窩,澆頭就已經淋在麵上。
奎元館的蝦爆鱔麵果然名不虛傳,麵靚湯好,蝦仁爽鱔絲脆,加上幾味做得很傳統的杭州菜,收費是人民幣二百多元,是此行吃得最滿足的一餐。

Labels

Followers