Thursday, 7 September 2017

識食才會惜食

識食才會惜食
🇮🇹進修美食文化其中一課堂,討論一篇關於🇯🇵國寶壽司之神小野二郎。文章描述一位美國遊客於小野餐廳用膳的見聞。來自歐洲丶美國的同學們大惑不解的是十分鐘就幹掉二十貫壽司,盛惠三萬円;他們覺得價格昂貴不值。小野大師更在門口送客連連點頭鞠躬,他們覺得怪異。座中的🇯🇵同學無解畫,當時的我祇認為是文化差異。
一貫壽司,最關鍵是什麼?飯?飯面上的食材?
小野大師(2015,小松正之)如是說:
醋飯比重的拿揑
壽司的美味,就醋飯占百分之六十的決定性關鍵。冷掉的飯不能用來揑壽司,壽司飯必須和人體肌膚的溫度相當才可以。拌入醋做成醋飯,要待醋稍微往飯粒裏頭滲透進去,調味是加入鹽拌入少許糖即可。古時不用加糖,因那時用的是在木桶漸漸陳化的醋,甘甜味已釋放出來。現今不用木桶盛醋,加少許糖是使壽司飯的味道更完整,加入少許糖也能幫飯粒增加色澤。大師會稍微刻意加重醋的角色,令酸味明顯,味道顯得有稜有角。
品嘗壽司時刻不過三秒鐘
當下立即享用,莫遲疑,精髓就在關鍵時刻,壽司温度冷卻了,算是浪費美食。由師傅出菜的三秒內將壽司放進嘴裏,那瞬間就是食物的温度與軟硬口感最理想的狀態。記著,壽司不是冷吃的!壽司本是迎合江戶人特有的急性子所產生出來的一種料理。大師的循證來自他的食客,包括眾多米芝連三星廚師,他們都是撃節讚賞。
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