黑薙温泉

http://reikayou.pixnet.net/blog/post/173460276-%E6%97%A5%E6%9C%AC%E4%B8%AD%E9%83%A8-day-3-1%3A-%E3%80%90%E5%AF%8C%E5%B1%B1%E3%80%91%E9%BB%91%E9%83%A8%E5%B3%BD%E8%B0%B7%E9%90%B5%E9%81%93

蠶豆

文自秀

8 March · Edited · 

魯鎮的酒店的格局，是和別處不同的：都是當街一個曲尺形的大櫃檯，櫃裡面預備著熱水，可以隨時溫酒。做工的人，傍午傍晚散了工，每每花四文銅錢，買一碗酒，------這是二十多年前的事，現在每碗要漲到十文，------靠櫃外站著，熱熱的喝了休息；倘肯多花一文，便可以買一碟鹽煮筍，或者茴香豆，做下酒物了，如果出到十幾文，那就能買一樣葷菜，但這些顧客，多是短衣幫，大抵沒有這樣闊綽。只有穿長衫的，才踱進店面隔壁的房子裡，要酒要菜，慢慢地坐喝.... 《孔乙己》魯迅

中學的時候，我被魯迅給迷住了，心想，這個人才情怎麼這麼好，讀他的文章像看戲，一幕幕的從眼前滑過去了。比方小說裡那個迂的好笑的孔乙己，他偷書被揍那我可學不了，但是小說裡的「茴香豆」是勞啥子玩意兒？這我非得要估摸清楚。東問西問下，原來是蠶豆煮出來的啊！我央求媽媽給我做，但媽媽除了不知道甚麼是茴香豆，也不知道吃了這種東西對我的學業有什麼幫助，不過她幫我到菜市場花十塊錢買了一包蠶豆，後來幾乎是每週都得買上一包，我有大半年老是啃著硬梆梆的蠶豆，讀魯迅、巴金、老舍、茅盾、沈從文…

上世紀末這世紀初，因著工作的關係，我在北京住了好幾年，去的最多次的飯館兒就是「孔乙己酒樓」，不管自己和客人吃不吃，怎麼都得先點上一盤「茴香豆」。然後也不管別人喜不喜歡魯迅、知不知道孔乙己，劈哩啪啦的就拋出來問：「你知道孔乙己說回有四種寫法嗎？」自問自答也就罷了，還掏出紙筆，硬是要寫給別人看「就是一、回，二、囘，三、囬，四、迴。」

很多人注意的都是橫眉冷對千夫指的魯迅，但我喜愛的他還多了一份對己身家鄉與美食書寫的情懷。就像是紹興鄉里民謠裡最物美價廉的這一味過酒胚「桂皮煮的茴香豆，謙裕、同興好醬油，曹娥運來芽青豆，東關請來好煮手，嚼嚼韌糾糾，吃咚嘴裡糯柔柔。」魯老兒這一筆，就讓家鄉的茴香豆，一舉揚名到了海內外。

不知怎地，昨天一下午在書房整理了幾十本的新舊魯迅，一心只想著十三、四歲那年啃的蠶豆，以及上世紀末北京孔乙己酒樓裡的那盤茴香豆。我想這可以算是另一種不一樣的「蠶豆症」吧！

芥末墩儿」

文自秀

10 March · Edited · 

俗話說的好：「一個好漢三個幫，一個籬笆三個樁。」那麼一棵大白菜可以幹嘛？一棵大白菜可以做成三個芥末墩儿。

芥末墩儿是老北京非常地道的百姓菜餚，每逢冬季大白菜上市，傳統的老北京家庭就會製作這道時令冷菜。芥末墩儿用的是黃芥末，是用芥菜的種子研磨而成，除了靠其辛辣調味，對去風濕和舒緩氣管炎也有助益。當嚴寒的的冬季來臨，人們總是懶乏於活動，身體易處僵麻，此時便憑這味通絡筋體。尤其是逢到農曆新年，大魚大肉吃多了讓人膩的慌，來上幾筷子芥末墩儿，那股爽利勁兒，瞬時解了腹胃裡的油膩。

這道看似平凡的京味家常小食，卻頗得名人的鍾愛。像是畫壇巨擘張大千，在他的梅花畫冊頁面上，便能看到酒壺和芥末墩儿，上面的題箋是「誰言君俗氣，梅花老酒伴君遊」，足見大千居士雖然是四川人，也對此有所情鍾。一部《駱駝祥子》引領我進入民國文學的老舍先生，他那位文才同樣了得的夫人胡絜青女士，便是靠芥末墩儿這道拿手菜，讓到訪家中用膳的客人讚不絕口，老舍夫婦二人甚以此為傲。

而我第一回知道「芥末墩儿」這道菜名，是十三歲讀了梁實秋寫的《北平年景》「吃是過年的主要節目。年菜是標準化了的，家家一律。人口旺的人家要進全豬，連下水帶豬頭，分別處理下咽。一鍋燉肉，加上蘑菇是一碗，加上粉絲又是一碗，加上山藥又是一碗，大盆的芥末墩儿，魚凍兒，肉皮辣醬，成缸的大腌白菜...」這裡面的每種食物我都見過，獨獨素未謀面的芥末墩儿，最令我感到好奇。

首次吃到芥末墩儿，則已是九七在北京前門八大樓之一的泰豐樓，這家開立於清朝光緒年間的老店，在民國初年曾名噪京城，因為孫中山、宋美齡、蔣介石、袁世凱、李宗仁、何應欽...等黨政要人，都曾慕名到此。像我這樣的小女子，到了名店初嘗這道老北京菜，卻被甜、酸、辣、脆、香一下子五味俱到的口感，給驚的不知該說什麼才好。北京友人一臉促狹的看著我，連說「寶島姑娘是不是讓第一口給嗆傻了！」

北京待得久了，慢慢也對這道辣味竄鼻的芥末墩儿習以為常，尤其是烤肉吃多了，唯一想讓我下箸的竟是曾讓我驚呆了的這道，只是我怎麼也學不會那些大院子裡長大的北京朋友，能端起盤子把底下那些衝的可以的湯汁，稀哩呼嚕的喝到肚子裡，然後還連聲讚嘆「真美！」

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論美食家

2015-09-13 07:58:11 聯合報 焦桐

論美食家 圖／Noveala

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詩集《完全壯陽食譜》出版後被誤會成美食家，常有餐館邀請去試菜；我生性嘴饞，也從來不反對別人請客，乃無宴不與。然則吃久了不免心虛，人家餐館老闆請飯，無非希望得到一點意見，我草包一個，懂什麼美食？為了在餐館老闆面前吹噓，遂趕緊惡補飲食知識，努力閱讀相關典籍；沒想到竟讀出興趣，忽焉十幾年，大致保持每天閱讀的習慣。

於今回顧，我之研究飲食文化是從貪吃和吹牛出發的，一種膨脹的誇耀意識；後來發現，這種誇耀意識普遍存在於世俗化的美食家之中。在台灣，當「大師」非常容易，常見朋友間互相戲稱大師，也不乏自稱大師、食神之流者，其實往往腹笥貧窘。

很多人聽了餐館經理說菜，就以為自己是美食家了。美食家並非資訊提供者，這年頭幾乎所有媒體都大量報導餐飲資訊，沒有人會真的缺乏。美食家也不是大胃王，更非誇耀吃過什麼昂貴食品或怪東西者。

像我這種貪吃鬼充其量只是老饕（gourmand），還沒有資格成為美食家（gourmet）。我長期是一個過度飲食者（overeaters），即使牙疼，也毫不動搖對美食的慾望。

那植牙醫師完全像獸醫，他一次拔掉我四顆牙齒，持續的疼痛和流血，整個下午癱在沙發上冰敷，雖則奄奄一息，心中猶渴望吞下一大碗冰淇淋。可能是天生有極強的自我憐憫能力，植牙那段時間醫囑吃點流質食物即可，我覺得自己不能吃東西很可憐，遂吞掉大量的粥、木瓜牛奶、果汁；療程結束，竟胖了三公斤。

我為何這麼沉迷於食物呢？修苦行的出家人大約會認為吃飯只為一具色身，沒什麼滋味可言。我之貪吃，恐怕和日本詩人種田山頭火（1882-1940）差不多，他雖然出家為僧，卻有一副放縱食慾的鐵胃，食量驚人，行乞時滿腦子在想今天能化多少緣？吃些什麼？我曾在山口縣火車站前的小公園看過種田山頭火的雕像，無法想像眼前這個有點矮小的花和尚，暴食程度竟勝過魯智深。

布里亞．薩瓦蘭（Jean-Anthelme Brillat-Savarin, 1755-1826）斷言美食主義是一門大學問，集雅典之優美、羅馬之雍容、法國之精巧，並匯聚高深之設計和高超之表演於一體，熔美食之熱誠、明智之鑑別於一爐。其高貴的品質可以用美德一詞來概括，此外，它同時也為我們提供最純粹的快樂。他說：「暴飲暴食是美食主義之敵；消化不良和爛醉如泥都是罪惡，務必從美食家名單中刪除（Gourmandism is the enemy of excess; indigestion and drunkenness are offences which render the delinquent liable to be struck form off the rolls.）」。

這就牽涉到食物的進出口問題。消化能力不僅顯示出器官優劣，也關係著個性。經常消化不良者，情緒必定長期低落。薩瓦蘭斷言詩人的悲喜屬性取決於消化能力：喜劇詩人屬排便正常者，悲劇詩人屬便祕者，田園牧歌、輓歌詩人屬腹瀉者。

華人餐館常歡喜吹噓曾有某某政治人物光臨該店。其實政客通常很乏味，每天忙碌於撈錢，滿腦子和胃腸都充塞著權位野心，吃飯只有止飢解渴的目的。拿破崙吃飯就馬虎而快速，而且沒有規律，肚子餓了就要立刻狼吞虎嚥。

美食家逯耀東教授生前謙說飲食是「小道」。飲食絕非小道，它是文化的最核心，張大千就愛以吃論畫，以畫論吃，曾教導弟子：「一個人如果連美食都不懂得欣賞，他又哪裡能學好藝術呢？」

蓋鑑賞美味必須器官的精密度，配合集中精神的能力，真正的美食家都有敏銳的心靈，和深厚的人文涵養。我最厭煩誇耀財富式的飲食習慣，《晉書》：何曾性奢豪，務在華侈，廚膳滋味，過於王者，食日萬錢，猶曰無下箸處。袁枚管這類誇耀性的食物叫「耳餐」，「耳餐者，務名之謂也。貪貴物之名，誇敬客之意，是以耳餐，非口餐也」。

食慾即生之慾，于右任：「人生就像飲食，每得一樣美食，便覺得生命更圓滿一分，享受無味甘美，如同享受色彩美人一樣，多一樣收穫，生命便豐足滋潤一分」。芥川龍之介自殺前對食物已了無興趣，甚至帶著恐懼和強烈的罪惡感。美食家自然對吃充滿熱情，食物出現前熱烈期待，接著細心品味，再通過有效的敘述回味。

愛吃的人多深諳廚藝，諸如張大千、譚延闓、王世襄、汪曾祺……大風堂食單聞名久矣，凡在張大千家裡當過差的廚師，出去開餐館都非常紅火。當年于右任在家款待毛澤東、周恩來、王若飛等人，亦親自制定菜單。

譚延闓家大官大，飲膳務求精細。後人道譚府家廚為「譚廚」者，是指為譚延闓做菜，並經過譚延闓指點的家廚曹藎臣（曹四）及其弟曹九。譚延闓位高權重，經濟寬裕，用料不惜工本，幾近豪奢，諸如一道鹽蛋黃燒芽白心，只取前一天晚上剛收割的黃芽白，去邊取嫩心，譚府吃這道菜，門外垃圾堆裡盡是黃芽白葉，這天，也是街坊鄰居的窮人最高興的時候。又如炒麻辣子雞，只取750克左右的嫩子雞胸脯肉，三隻雞才能炒一份。梁實秋說：「從前南京的譚院長每次吃烤乳豬是派人到湖南桂東縣專程採辦肥小豬乘飛機運來的」。

喬治．桑在1866年2月3日的日記裡記載親嘗大仲馬的廚藝：「這頓飯是大仲馬親手做的，從湯到沙拉，總共十來道菜，全都可口無比」。大仲馬不僅是美食家，精通廚藝，人生的最後幾年專注在廚藝上，他很高興烹飪藝術的名氣幾乎蓋過了文學：「能在一個新的領域有所成就，我遺贈給子女的不僅僅是書──那些書他們可以受用15年到20年──還有鍋瓢碗盞，這才是他們受用不盡的，而且還可以遺贈給他們的後代。我遲早會為了掌勺而封筆，這是在為我一座新的豐碑奠基」。

又如陸游，廚藝恐不遑多讓於蘇東坡，我們讀詩作〈洞庭春色〉、〈山居食每不成肉戲作〉、〈飯罷戲作〉，當可略知他的手段。

品嘗美食是審美活動，不能缺乏敏銳的心靈和知識底蘊。台灣「米其林」綠色指南竟將滷肉飯譯為“Lu（Shandong-Style）Meat Rice”，並解釋作法和來源：「豬肉塊與洋蔥炒過後煮熟，是緣起於山東（中國東北）的著名小吃」，所述做法和起源完全錯誤。

接受電視台採訪，才知道這本米其林綠色指南是政府花數百萬元委請他們製作的。本來不值得回應，可米其林這種文化現象，竟令我們帶著一種自我臣服的情結，面對洋人的味覺，自信心常集體崩潰。洋人舞動著他們的舌頭，指揮國人的味覺。

沒多久，又聽說有美食家附會「魯肉飯」源自山東，並斷言它就是周天子常吃的八珍之一「淳熬」。似是而非的理解更令人錯愕。首先，台灣的街頭巷尾，有不少店家誤將「滷」肉飯寫成「魯」肉飯，這類筆誤隨處都有，吾人見怪不怪，卻和山東毫無瓜葛。何況周天子的所在地是洛陽，在今天的河南西部，不在山東。

最早記載八珍的文獻見於《周禮．天官冢宰．膳夫》，周天子每天食用的八珍中「淳熬」、「淳母」兩種都形似今天台灣的滷肉飯，也形似中國大陸的肉醬蓋澆飯；形似卻相異。《禮記．內則》解釋淳熬：「煎醢，加於陸稻上，沃之以膏」。說明淳母則是：「煎醢，加於黍食上，沃之以膏」，淳母和淳熬一樣，只是改旱米為黍米，一樣將煎好的肉醬加油脂覆在米飯上。

醢，是以肉類為主料製成的肉醬，製法是先曬乾肉，剁碎，加鹽、酒，拌入酒麴，密封待其發酵後食用。可見淳熬是醃漬過的肉醬，加上動物脂油，覆於米飯上，做法、形式、內容都迥異於台灣的滷肉飯。

此外，台灣滷肉飯使用豬肉臊，不曾出現周天子所吃「六牲」中的肉類：牛、羊、犬、雁（鵝）、魚。周天子吃飯，得上一百二十罋醢，除了用六牲醃製，還不乏雞、兔、鹿、麇、蛤、蚌、蟹、蝸牛所製作的肉醬。與其說現在的滷肉飯是三千多年前的淳熬，不如說淳熬、淳母像罐頭鯷魚、罐頭鯰魚澆飯，古代的冷藏條件差，盛行醃漬食物，又油又腥的罐頭鯷魚和鯰魚才像。

起初，路邊攤未加考究，誤將「滷」作「魯」，因襲日久，有些店家遂以訛承訛。我們毋須計較攤商寫錯別字，萬萬想不到世俗化美食家大膽至此，竟望字生義，據「魯」胡扯。

世俗化美食家的共同特色是講話沒有根據，常胡說八道。另一知名美食家還對記者說：「魯肉飯百分之九十九點八出自山東應該沒錯。以四書《孟子》出現的『膾炙』一句來說明，『膾』是生肉片，切成條狀，用『炙』的方式處理，然而，兩個字相合為『膾炙』的解釋多元，現代人習慣解釋為『烤肉』，但其實也蘊含『滷』的意義」。這段敘述非常滑稽，穿鑿附會已嚴重到走火入魔的地步。蓋膾乃細切的魚肉，亦泛指切割，《禮記．少儀》：「牛與羊魚之腥，聶而切之為膾」。鄭玄注：「先藿葉切之，復報切之，則成膾」。《詩．小雅．六月》：「飲御諸友，炰龞膾鯉」。

也不知道什麼緣故，現在四面八方都是美食家，我們走在街上不小心就會撞到美食家。然則美食家絕非一天到晚吹噓吃過什麼稀珍的人；哎，從前的美食家是要讀書的，心靈也要夠敏銳的，味覺要夠靈巧，講話也要誠實，像蘇東坡、陸游、李漁、袁枚、朱彝尊……

遠藤周作看不慣裝模作樣的老饕，說自己是世俗化老饕眼中的歪道，進了壽司店，會先吞個新鮮的海膽壽司，再來個布滿油花的鮪魚中腹壽司，最後吃炭烤蝦壽司；這種吃法是最被他們鄙棄的。他認為真正的老饕，要「以自己的舌頭吃遍連市井小民都不知道的小店，並用自己的味覺去『發現』美味，或借此鍛鍊自己的舌頭以察覺到美味」。美食家總是忠於自己的感覺，不會裝模作樣。

美好的食物會徘徊在腦海裡，喚醒呆滯的味蕾，然則什麼是美食？我心目中的美食無涉價錢，而是好食材，遇到好廚師，認真仔細操作。鄭板橋在寫給弟弟的信中提到貧窮的漁人，「取魚撈蝦，撐船結網；破屋中吃秕糠，啜麥粥，搴取荇葉蘊頭蔣角煮之，旁貼蕎麥鍋餅，便是美食」。

好食材是當令當季的健康材料。日前來到番禺沙灣鎮「紫坭魚庄」，傍江營業，沒有菜單，每天的菜式視當天漁獲而定，價格則隨行就市，店家僅問了人數，就上捕撈到的魚，只加了適量的鹽、油清蒸，也談不上火候，比較特別的是堅持燒柴火；蒸得有點過度的黃花魚、立魚、邊魚、鱸魚皆不稀罕，擺在鐵盤上，模樣簡單到幾近笨拙，粗糙卻質樸；邊吃飯邊觀賞江上行船，覺得魚肉十分鮮嫩細滑，滋味美妙，又充滿野趣。

這就是原味的魅力了，原味和新鮮，提醒我們把握當下，珍惜目前。大凡美食皆追求甘美純淨，它喚起的不僅味覺感受，更是掩不住的愉悅。

從青年到糟老頭，我一直維持著旺盛的飢餓感，從前覺得自己一天比一天胖，現在是一餐比一餐胖，雖則不想把自己的肚皮當上帝來崇拜。約翰生博士說得好：我在意我的肚子；不在意肚子的人，也不會在意別的事情。

聯副9-10月駐版作家：

焦桐

本名葉振富，知名詩人、美食家，曾主編報紙副刊、創辦飲食雜誌，現主持二魚文化事業群、任教於中央大學中文系。1999年詩集《完全壯陽食譜》出版，焦桐別具心裁地串連起了食物、情慾與政治，既嚴肅又戲謔，掀起飲食書寫的情色革命；涉足日深，一往無前，《味道福爾摩莎》為其集大成之作，每年並編輯飲食文選，致力於推廣飲食文學與文化，卓然有成。

想與焦桐對話的朋友，請於9月30日前以email提出書面問題，本刊整理後將交作家本人，擇要回答刊於聯副。聯副信箱：lianfu@udngroup.com。

焦桐關鍵詞：

1.詩人

2.美食家

3.近期最重要著作：《味道福爾摩莎》

活色生香
崑南：知粥者朋亦樂也（家常美食之二）
By 本土新聞 On 九月 5, 2015

A 君來訪，他個性本沉默寡言，相隔兩年，他一坐下，卻滔滔不絕，性情竟然變得一百八十度，可見時世壓人欺人，非同小可也。從社會事件到生活瑣事，他都有意見，一字一句，都表達不滿。他說，「剛剛在附近粥店，吃了碗擺尾，吃到我火到嚟埋，米還米，水還水，廿多元一碗，幾塊魚片，而且並不新鮮的，一入口就有糜爛感。之前叫伙記加 多些蔥，結果不理不睬。」對，正如袁枚《随園食單》記載：「見水不見米，非粥也；見米不見水，非粥也。必使水米融洽，柔腻如一，而後謂之粥。」

冰箱內還有魚片，我於是說，「讓我馬上親手煲番碗靚粥你吃，順番條氣吧。」他有點不相信，四十五分鐘便可以搞掂？

是的，可以，雖不算綿綿粥底，至少是見米見水，粥味十足之白粥也。（當然，真正的廣府白粥，要加腐竹、白果，這又是另一番的天地）。許多人都以爲煲粥，需要費時甚久，又話米要先浸水一小時，明火細火滾，又要至少一小時。其實，如果是兩個人的份量，一殼米多些，煮半小時便足夠。要記住的竅門只有三個：一是先把水煲至全滾纔下米，二是全程邊煲邊攪拌，三是煲內稠的狀態一出現，便得加水（煲過的水）。

當然，先明火，後細火，這已是普通常識了。第一次下水，二至三大湯碗的水是少不。在此同時，魚片要落鹽、雞粉、豉油和豆粉醃，以雙蒸酒代水，粥成的時間內便夠入味的了。薑絲與蔥絲，當然不能少。最後階段，再添些少三蒸，酒香撩人。由開始到結束，全神貫注四十五分鐘，便可完成。

A 君跟我一樣，吃東西時，喜歡趁熱入口，一碗熱騰騰的生滾粥擺在面前，必然忍唔住。吃完後，他的開心指數馬上提升，不再提時事，而請我教番佢幾度散手煮番幾味。這一回，有朋自遠方來，不亦樂乎。而這個樂，是知粥朋亦樂也。

很久沒有在外邊吃粥了。所謂生滾粥，都是唔三唔四，至於晨早的白粥油炸鬼加腸粉，當年的風味，蘯然無存好耐，想起就傷心。

好幾年前，為了這碗粥，搭般去澳門，廣州某些地區，還可以懷舊回味一番。現在，都俱往矣。澳門的蟹粥，今天已失去昔日的鮮味，真正的一蟹不如一蟹了。

九龍佐敦區的一間老店，勉強保持水凖，專門生滾魚粥，不是魚片這麼單調，包括一條魚的每一個部位，如魚鮫、魚尾、魚咀、魚唇、魚腩，還有魚皮、魚鰾；如果客人需要，一親供應生魚片，魚皮，當然少不了炸鲮球，魚骨也不放過，連魚腩一起炸，又一味菜了。蔥絲與生菜絲的供應，源源不絕，任客人自取，這一招，確實是招徠之道。

話時話，自己去街市買料，回家自煮，更為實際，重些手，買桂魚、龍躉、石斑回來切片，或泥鯭成條滾粥，其味無窮也。在家中開行冷氣，慢慢歎熱騰騰的粥品，何止一樂也

http://m.openrice.com/zh/restaurant/reviews/12413

Buffet hk

http://m.hopetrip.com.hk/news/201310/41608.html

Louisa Lam added 22 new photos — at Guzman Gastronomia

4 hrs · 

Cooking in Barcelona : Day 2 (molecular cuisine and new technologies)

京都宇治三星園上林三入

Alex Lai with Danny Liu and 3 others at Dan's Studio

2 hrs · 

京都宇治三星園上林三入，創業於16世紀中晚期天正年間，曾是昔日大名如織田信長、豐臣秀吉以至德川家族的御用茶莊，造訪時經操流利日語的瑞士人Tobias細心解說和引誘下，忍不住買了今季特上御抹茶，是夜和朋友們奮力地用盡手腕陰力，終「發」出如Tobias-San口裡所說的香濃creamy味道。

http://m.appledaily.com.tw/appledaily/article/supplement/20110114/33109799/

http://fooduncovered.org/2015/06/05/fishing-facts/

Kim Severson’s Italian Meatballs
  KIM SEVERSON  Time20 minutes  YieldAbout 16 meatballs
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Evan Sung for The New York Times

These are the meatballs you want to serve with spaghetti sauce — my mother Anne Marie Zappa’s is the one I’d use, but your favorite will work as well. Key to the recipe is a light hand in the mixing.

Featured in: A Grandchild Of Italy Cracks The Spaghetti Code.

Beef, Italian
Cooked 
INGREDIENTS
2 pounds ground beef
1 cup fresh bread crumbs
½ cup finely grated Parmesan
1 heaping tablespoon chopped fresh basil
1 heaping tablespoon chopped fresh parsley
1 teaspoon kosher salt
½ teaspoon black pepper
⅛ teaspoon ground cayenne pepper
2 cloves garlic, minced
2 eggs
3 tablespoons olive oil
Spaghetti sauce
Nutritional Information
PREPARATION
In a large bowl, mix all ingredients except olive oil by hand, using a light touch. Take a portion of meat in hand, and roll between palms to form a ball that is firmly packed but not compressed. Repeat, making each meatball about 2 inches in diameter.
In a large, heavy pot heat olive oil over medium-high heat. When it shimmers, add meatballs in batches. Do not crowd. Brown well on bottoms before turning, or meatballs will break apart. Continue cooking until browned all over. Remove meatballs to a plate as each batch is finished. Let meatballs cool slightly; cover and refrigerate until needed.
Serve with spaghetti sauce.
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《うてな喫茶店》

文自秀 

想在老咖啡館
來個不期而遇
歲月裹在日曆裡
而你躲在記憶裡
彳亍是種傷感
厚了左腳薄了右腳
我把那夜的月亮
呵氣畫在毛玻璃上
我們不是彼此的影子
又怎能永遠在一起

每回到京都，大阪是個必然的中繼站，非常熱情的一個城市以及居民，但新幹線實在是飛快，所以我很少會停下來。

中崎町大概算是大阪最有氣質的地區，在棟棟老式長屋之間，在一家又一家的特色小店穿梭，能讓你暫時忘卻自己正身處喧鬧的商業城市裡。

這家咖啡館有空我還是會再過來，點一杯老闆推薦的咖啡，吃一塊Cheese蛋糕，看看頂天立地大書櫃裡的書，然後請家人開車來接我，這種時候的等待，就會化作一種幸福。

《うてな喫茶店》
地址：大阪市北区中崎西1-8-23
(地下鉄谷町線中崎町駅4號出口徒步約3分鐘)
電話：06-63721612

《利庵》

文自秀 

我承認自己有時也會受困頓所挫
但，那都只是短暫的躑躅
我的生命要盡情，我的旅程要盡興
最好的人生，永遠都在路上

正宗的手打蕎麥麵很費工，需要經過「三たて(挽、打、茹)」的步驟，才算合格，所以台北街頭林立的大多是拉麵店，而不是難度高的蕎麥麵店。

拜住在東京白金台高級住宅區的學長請客所賜，讓我除了麻布十番的老店《更科堀井》，多認識了一家美味的餐廳《利庵》。

和銀座或是六本木的喧嘩大相逕庭，即使已然滿座，午間的《利庵》店內，就算不少人的桌前都擺著一杯生啤酒，除了呼嚕呼嚕吃麵的聲音，大家也都是小小聲地交談，讓稍後要去找書的我，感到格外的放鬆。

「啊！真想在這附近住一段時間。」早上去過八芳園的我發出了這樣的感慨。
「目黑通好像有短租公寓，要不要幫妳問問看。」學長很認真的回答。

就這樣，原本打算一周之後離開東京的我，從池袋的飯店搬到了目黑通的短租公寓，然後又住了長達一個月，因為一份正宗的手打蕎麥麵 kiki emoticon

《利庵》
地址：東京都港区白金台5-17-2
(地下鉄白金台駅1號出口徒歩約3分鐘)
電話：03-3444-1741

http://www.panpansang.com/p/blog-page_14.html

《味道福爾摩莎．擂茶》

焦桐 

離開吉隆坡前一天早晨，報社的朋友帶鄭愁予和我去吃擂茶，這家店的配料甚夥，似河婆擂茶那一脈。河婆客，指廣東揭西縣地區的客家人，有幾十萬人移居在東南亞地區。河婆擂茶使用多種健康蔬菜，予人健康養身感，其材料非常豐富，包括米、油、薑、蔥頭、鹽、花生、白芝麻、薄荷業、九層塔、樹仔葉、苦粒心葉、芥蘭、大蒜、豆角、韭菜花、芹菜、茶葉、胡椒粒、豆干、蘿蔔乾、蝦米。吃起來似乎與茶無涉，倒像是一碗豐盛的鹹粥。
河婆客下南洋，擂茶變化出「擂茶飯」（thunder tea rice），王潤華在《飯碗中的雷聲》說赤道新馬，雷雨不斷，晚飯時往往有熱帶對流雨，遠處山脈雷聲隆隆，飯缽裡擂茶好像呼應著雷聲。他指出擂茶飯乃文化誤讀，是海外華人的創造性想像，帶著駁雜性和本土性。
擂茶歷史悠久，擂，即研磨；簡單的作法是搗碎米飯、花生、芝麻、綠茶，食用時以沸水調勻，或在鍋中煮開，我在臺灣所嚐皆屬此法。這種養生茶飲，又名三生湯、鹹茶，大別為客家擂茶和湖南擂茶，客家製作方式較繁複。
它代表客家茶點文化，其形貌接近泡飯，我猜想這種茗粥，啟發了日本的茶泡飯。擂茶兼具飽肚、解渴任務，連接著客家族群的歷史命運。客家人歷經數次大遷徙，跋涉，流離，久而養成堅韌勤勞的集體個性，飲此茗粥，原料取之於山野，烹之於旅次，有效撫慰了疲憊的身心。
臺灣擂茶流傳於客家庄，尤風行在新竹北埔和苗栗；可惜現在已漸漸沒落。擂茶已隨著海外客家移民散布到馬來西亞、新加坡、印尼等地。以下3圖為吉隆坡「阿妹」河婆擂茶。

HONG KONG’S TOP 12 DIM SUM RESTAURANTS THAT OFFER THE QUINTESSENTIAL DIM SUM EXPERIENCE February 15, 2015 by LADYIRONCHEF /

Dim Sum is a ritual in Hong Kong. It is a lifestyle, it is a past-time, it is quintessentially Hong Kong.

Many cultures have something similar like the Spanish tapas, the Italian cicheti and the Japanese izakaya, but dim sum is somewhat on a different level, very gastronomical and exquisite, and is truly special especially to us Asians.

From traditional dim sum teahouses, to the cheapest Michelin Starred dim sum restaurants, and very posh Chinese restaurants that offer an exquisite dining experience like no other – there are countless of dim sum restaurants in Hong Kong, and while the choices are mind-boggling to say the least, we have shortlisted our favourites to share with all of you.

Here is our guide to Hong Kong’s Top 12 Dim Sum Restaurants.

---

DIM DIM SUM

---

A place that serves affordable and creative dim sum is Dim Dim Sum, which has several outlets – Mong Kok, Sha Tin, Wan Chai and Jordan.

Besides the usual suspects like Har Gau (HK$28) and Siew Mai (HK$21), Dim Dim Sum also has a variety of interesting creations with a twist such as Pineapple Bun with custard and pineapple fillings (HK$19), Stuffed Eggplant (HK$21) with teriyaki sauce, and Pan-fried Lotus Root Cakes (HK$24).

The Salted Egg Yolk Custard Buns (HK$20) that come in piggy shapes is a good bet, and is very photogenic!

G/F, Man Wah Building
23 Man Ying Street, Jordan
Tel: +852 2771 7766
Daily: 10am – 1am
Nearest MTR: Jordan

---

DUDDELL’S

---

Awarded with two stars in Michelin Guide Hong Kong 2015, Duddell’s at Central is one of the bests that we’ve dined at. It boasts an elegant ambiance with fine dim sum and Cantonese soups, and has a rooftop bar.

Good for lunch meetings, even better for unwinding after work if you need a drink or two. Duddell’s adds a touch of sexiness to the humdrum of the business district.

As for dim sum, Duddell’s offers the classic items that are presented in a refined manner. Shrimp Dumpling comes with Matsutake Mushroom (HK$60) or Fish Maw (HK$69), Pork Dumpling is served with scallop (HK$60), Mushroom Dumpling is topped with Black Truffle (HK$69), Abalone Puff with Chicken (HK$58)… You get the idea.

Level 3, Shanghai Tang Mansion
1 Duddell Street, Central
Tel: + 852 2525 9191
Mon to Sat: 12pm – 3pm, 6pm – 11pm
Sun: 12pm – 3pm, 6pm – 10pm
Nearest MTR: Central

---

FU SING SEAFOOD RESTAURANT

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Dim sum lovers, all hail Fu Sing Seafood Restaurant. The whole outlet looks traditional, but that is what makes them such an atmospheric spot for a dim sum meal. They are widely known for their shark’s fins, but we would take the dim sum any time.

Filled with the sweetest char siew fillings in a airily soft bun, Fu Sing’s Baked BBQ Pork Buns (HK$38) are the best that we’ve had in Hong Kong. We can never forget that pillowy bun that came with a full center of char siew fillings and a crusty pineapple-shaped top. Other than that, the Steamed Rice Rolls with Dough Stick (HK$48) and Steamed Shrimp Dumplings (HK$38) are really satisfying too.

Fu Sing Seafood Restaurant has three outlets in Hong Kong – Wan Chai, Causeway Bay and Central.

1/F, 68 Yee Woo Street, Causeway Bay
Tel: +852 2504 4228
Mon to Sat: 11am – 11pm
Sun & PH: 10.30am – 11pm
Nearest MTR: Causeway Bay

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LEI GARDEN

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The most consistent Michelin Star Restaurant for dim sum? Lei Garden wins the award hands down.

Lei Garden is known for its weekend dim sum crowds, and it is little wonder given the quality of their dim sum. The food is consistently remarkable and always reliable no matter which branch you go to or when you visit. The Steamed Thousand Layers Sponge Cake (HK$32) was really soft and sweet, and the Steamed Custard Stuffed Buns (HK$32) with a flowy center left a deep impression on us.

10/F, Times Square
1 Matheson Street, Causeway Bay
Tel: +852 2506 3828
Nearest MTR: Causeway Bay

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LIN HEUNG TEAHOUSE

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An institution in Hong Kong, Lin Heung Teahouse has been around for decades and it is one of the oldest teahouses in Hong Kong. Conveniently located at the bustling Wellington Street, Lin Heung offers a taste of Old Hong Kong, and is very well-loved by both locals and tourists alike.

Lin Heung Teahouse is as old-school as it gets; dim sum is served using trolleys the traditional way, and most of the staff have worked there for decades. If you get there early enough in the morning, you will find yourself among locals who have been dining there for many years.

The staff here tend to be ruder – especially to foreigners who cannot speak Cantonese – but that’s just part of the Hong Kong’s traditional dining culture, no?

160-164 Wellington Street
Central, Hong Kong
Tel: +852 2544 4556
Daily: 6am – 11pm, dim sum till 3.30pm
Nearest MTR: Sheung Wan

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LUK YU TEA HOUSE

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Dining at Luk Yu Tea House – also one of the oldest dim sum restaurants in Hong Kong – is as though you were transported back in time to the 60′s. Very traditional with ancient touches of jades and marbles, Luk Yu Tea House actually looks and feels like a movie set. But we really love how atmospheric it is this way, less the gangsters, of course. Yes, it used to be a haunt for the biggest gangsters in town. Such history to speak of!

Prices are not cheap, but what you are paying for is the experience of dining at a traditional teahouse with authentic Hong Kong dim sum. Service is bad too – be prepared to face rude and nonchalant servers. If you are willing to overlook these, Luk Yu is still worth a visit for those who have never been. Don’t leave without trying the Siew Mai with Pork Liver.

24-26 Stanley Street
Hong Kong
Tel: +852 2523 5464
Daily: 7am – 9pm
Nearest Station: Central

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MAXIM’S PALACE

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The flagship outlet at City Hall offers the most quintessential Hong Kong dim sum experience. Accommodate 500 guests at one go, Maxim’s Palace is massive and it is noisy. It ranks top for its authenticity by retaining its practice of serving dim sum on trolleys – the good ol’ traditional way.

There will be 18 trolleys – filled with a hundred varieties of dim sum and signature dishes that are all prepared fresh from the kitchen daily – going around the dining hall, and you pick what you like. No matter how many times you go back, there is always something familiar to pick from among your favourite dishes, as well as something new to try.

Apart from the usual suspects like har gau, siew mai and chee cheong fun, you can also find mouth-watering and refined Cantonese fare that is prepared with a sheer passion for Canton-style cooking. Its signature dishes include Deep-fried Prawns with Mango Salad Dressing, Deep-fried Sliced Garoupa with Sweet Corn Sauce,

3/F, City Hall 5-7 Edinburgh Place
Tel: +852 2521 1303
Mon to Sat: 11am – 3pm, 5.30pm – 11pm
Sun & PH: 9am – 3pm, 5.30pm – 11pm
Nearest Station: Central

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ONE DIM SUM

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With just one nondescript and humble outlet in Prince Edward, One Dim Sum has been in the spotlight ever since they earned their one Michelin star in 2012. Even though it did not retain the Michelin star, the queue at the restaurant remains the same every day – it is mostly packed with regulars who return again and again for its much-lauded dim sum.

Everything on the menu is pleasantly affordable. You can expect your everyday dim sum selection, special creations and daily surprises that can be found on the black board. And nothing is above HK$26.

Choose from the classic favourites like Baked Barbecue Pork Bun (HK$15 for a plate of 3), Steamed Siew Mai (HK$24 for a basket of 4), Steamed Vermicelli Roll with Deep Fried Flour Roll (HK$17 per portion), Steam Cake in Mala Style (HK$16).

There is something so enchanting about enjoying a cheap dim sum meal while being surrounded by locals, and trying to understand all their concurrent Cantonese conversations.

Shop 1 & 2, G/F, Kenwood Mansion
15 Playing Field Road, Prince Edward
Tel: +852 2789 2280
Mon to Fri: 11am – 12.30 midnight
Sat & Sun: 10am – 12.30 midnight
Nearest MTR: Prince Edward (Exit A)

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TIM HO WAN

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Tim Ho Wan shot to fame being the original poster boy as the cheapest One-Michelin Starred Dim Sum Restaurant. Within a few years, its dim sum empire has expanded to Singapore, Kuala Lumpur, Manila and Sydney.

We used to be big fans of Tim Ho Wan as it was really good and cheap. But prices have gone up significantly and the standard is no longer as good as before. That said, if you have never tried Tim Ho Wan before and do not mind to wait in line, it is still worth a visit. Tim Ho Wan may no longer be the cheapest dim sum restaurant in Hong Kong, but it still has several things going for it. The much-lauded Baked BBQ Pork Bun alone is reason enough for you to visit them.

G/F, 9-11 Fuk Wing Street
Sham Shui Po
Tel: +852 2788 1226
Daily: 8am – 10pm
Nearest MTR: SHam Shui Po

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TIN LUNG HEEN

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For dim sum with a view, no one can beat Tin Lung Heen at the swanky Ritz Carlton Hong Kong. Perched at the top of the commerce building, Tin Lung Heen is perhaps the highest Chinese restaurant in Hong Kong and it offers unparalleled views of city’s skyline.

The menu sprawls across many categories, including roast meat, vegetables, dim sum, but the must-try dish is its Kurobuta Pork. The excellent dim sum offerings, coupled with the amazing view and excellent service, make Tin Lung Heen a destination Hong Kong for dim sum lovers.

102/F, The Ritz-Carlton Hong Kong
International Commerce Centre
1 Austin Road West, Tsim Sha Tsui
Tel: +852 2263 2270
Mon to Fri: 12pm – 2.30pm, 6pm – 10.30pm
Sat, Sun & PH: 11.30am – 3pm, 6pm – 10.30pm
Nearest MTR: Kowloon

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WEST VILLA

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Yet another old and traditional-looking outlet is West Villa at Causeway Bay. We learned of the countless raves about them, but strange enough, while the ambiance is that of the typical Hong Kong dim sum house, we were not particularly impressed.

Alright, food was decent though. They take their braise seriously, and the Goose Webs with Abalone Sauce (S$70) is a bestseller. The roast options are worth ordering too – Sliced BBQ Pork (S$88), Cantonese Roasted Pork (S$118) and Roasted Baby Pigeon (S$68).

5/F Lee Gardens One
33 Hysan Avenue, Causeway Bay
Tel: +852 2882 2100
Mon to Sat: 11am – 11.30pm
Sun: 10am – 11.30pm
Nearest MTR: Causeway Bay

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YAN TOH HEEN

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Known for its refined Cantonese cuisine, Yan Toh Heen is a 2-Michelin Starred restaurant at Intercontinental Hong Kong. Start with the Yan Toh Heen Three Trios (HK$158) – a dim sum platter of Puff Pastry with crabmeat, mango and avocado; Bun with Duck Liver and Taro; and Crispy Rice Paper Roll with Seafood, Peach and Almonds. Other interesting dim sum options include Baked Roasted Duck & Taro Buns (HK$66), Wok-seared Buns with Wagyu Beef and Cumin (HK$60).

Yah Toh Heen’s Peking Duck (HK$1,180) is also one of the best in Hong Kong. What makes the Peking Duck here different is the condiments and sauces. It is served with six condiments that include green papaya, cucumber, red chilli, pineapple, yuzu and spring onion; as well as three different sauces – traditional sweet sauce, osmanthus plum sauce, and black garlic chilli sauce.

G/F, InterContinental Hong Kong
18 Salisbury Road, Tsim Sha Tsui
Tel: +852 2721 1211
Mon to Sat: 12pm – 2.30pm, 6pm – 11pm
Sun & PH: 11.30am – 3pm, 6pm – 11pm
Nearest Station: Tsim Sha Tsui